First Look: Killer Grizzly Burger & New Winter Menu at Bear

The Grizzly is a dangerously serious new contender

Bear Bar & Restaurant (12-14 31st Ave., Long Island City)

Chef Natasha Pogrebinsky is playing hard core.  The angel-faced young chef is refreshingly genuine and sweet face-to-face, but in the kitchen she is playing some serious hard ball.  Don't be fooled by the dazzle of the Swarovski crystal lamps.  This may be the home of Long Island City's first "New European" menu but not all dishes are duck confit and caviar fork-and-knife refined.  There's a burger, for one, that absolutely blew me away.

Starting with the bun, the buttery challah is sandwich perfection.  But the patty on this grizzly is absolutely mystifying.  Organic prime beef, your teeth are met with a beautiful chargrilled crunch, and then they immediately sink right into the middle of one of the most delicately ground, juiciest meatballs you have ever tasted.  And the seasoning... almost like a Balkan sausage or cevapi.  Add to that a blanket of melted fontina with paprika aioli, and the kicker--a crowning of carrots that have been shaved to paper thin ribbons, beer battered, and deep-fried.  All with a side of Persian pickles and steak fry wedges.  This bad boy truly is a very special burger, and at $9 for the entire platter, it's easier on the pocketbook than many of its neighbors.

The duck shepherd's pie, available in two portion sizes, is one of the most sophisticated, heartiest, most savory winter meals to hit Western Queens.  The ridiculously tender slow-roasted duck has been gently pulled, tossed with a blend of seasonal winter vegetables, and capped with toasted mashed Yukon potatoes, served in an individual ceramic pot ($9/$16).

An edible sculpture, the winter ceviche is scallops tossed in lemon and lime juices with delicately sliced Granny Smith apples, cilantro, and scallions, all jeweled with Alaskan salmon caviar, wasabi tobiko, and pea shoots.

Now I'm a sucker for a croquette, but I also love arancini--the Italian stuffed rice balls.  But the Three Little Bears is like a divine marriage of the two, almost little shepherd's pie fritters.  The perfect snack, these three substantial croquettes are stuffed with meat and cheese, served on a smeared dollop of creme fraiche.  Crispy golden delicious perfection.

Earthy woodland mushrooms have been stewed with roasted onions, garlic, thyme, and rosemary, then tucked into a ramekin with baby potatoes, topped with a soft-centered farm egg that has been brûlée torched with a ribbon of cheese.

Crispy-coated pork belly stuffed with garlic and parsley has been rendered exceptionally buttery and tender, one of the most delicious platings of it I have ever enjoyed.  One of the chef's personal favorites, this is a quintessential hearty winter dish.

Two pasta dishes are showcased on the winter menu, including a slow-roasted rabbit with house fettuccine and a white wine cream sauce, or one of my personal favorites, a stroganoff of mixed forest mushrooms seared with onions in a garlic-rosemary gravy with cheese shavings.

Crispy-skinned pan-seared sole with just a hint of lemon zest is an exercise in how delicious simplicity can be, served on a pedestal of potatoes poached in butter and dill with carrots, celery, and scallions.

Plump diver sea scallops make a highly-requested return, stewed in cherry tomatoes and a tarragon-barley risotto.

Short ribs braised in red wine falls off the bone, accompanied by carrots and fried-baked potatoes.

Formerly a whole-roasted duck, the confit is now available as a leg and thigh, served in natural juices, with a whole roasted apple and pan-seared young potatoes.

On Tuesdays, mussels & fries and select wine & cocktails are just $5 at the bar from 6PM to midnight.  And don't forget to check out the Saturday and Sunday brunch prix fixe for $14 with unlimited coffee and a brunch cocktail.

Sublimely Delicious Winter Dishes at Ornella Trattoria

The bolognese sauce takes over 2 hours to prepare, served on homemade fusilli

Ornella Trattoria Italiana (29-17 23rd Ave; 1/2 block from Ditmars N/Q station)

"Now-ah dis is-ah dah REAL fyoo-see-lee... not like-ah dat spiral stuff... dis is much bedd-uh.  Fuhgeddaboudit..." smiles Giuseppe, as he proudly places the masterpiece on the white linen before me.  His Italian accent is as thick and comforting as the bolognese sauce blanketing the long coils of fresh pasta. Half the joy of dining at Ornella, after all, is having Giuseppe serve you.

As I devour the savory meat sauce and thin, hollow al dente noodles, he points out one of the greatest joys of eating homemade pasta.  Since he never uses a machine, each noodle is slightly different in thickness, shape, and texture, making each bite uniquely enjoyable.  The fusilli bolognese is a dish from his hometown that his mother-in-law has made by hand probably thousands of times over the course of her life.

Each and every dish comes with a family story, and there are well over 100 different dishes available in the restaurant any given day of the week, though only a select few are listed on the menu.  This is the man who was famous for his contraband supply of casu marzu as well as his seasonal offering of the legendary sanguinaccio--a chocolate pudding made with fresh pig's blood, which Giuseppe also uses as a cannoli filling (he's already made a batch this winter).

But despite the Fear-Factor-ish culinary delicacies he loves to share with friends and regulars, Giuseppe's menu is undeniably the most diverse Italian menu anywhere around, and arguably the most authentic.  Will he make you chicken parmigiana?  Sure.  But only because he likes to please each customer; not because it's a favorite authentic dish.

Pizzoccheri alla Fontina

If you truly want to enjoy what makes this restaurant so incredibly special, simply ask Giuseppe about the dishes inspired by his home in Salerno, Italy.  From his father, who ran a flour mill, Giuseppe learned the nuances of making different flours.  One of the most exquisite dishes he serves is the pizzoccheri alla fontina, featuring long flat noodles made from buckwheat flour.  The hearty pasta ribbons are tossed with tender braised cabbage, golden potatoes, fontina cheese, and a touch of garlic and olive oil.  The dish is simultaneously light, hearty, decadent, and a playscape of textures and flavors atypical of Italian American standards.

Risotto al Nero di Seppia

Another delicious winter special that Giuseppe has recently introduced is this cuttlefish risotto.  The black color comes from a mere spoonful of cuttlefish ink, which is the original ink used for sepia prints (though now other inks are typically substituted for the sepia effect).  In spite of its uninviting color, the risotto is wonderfully al dente, and sings exquisitely of seafood with a kiss of parmesan.  Hidden within the fragrant rice are actual medallions of cuttlefish, which look and taste like a more tender version of steamed calamari.  Though the peas are primarily a contrasting garnish, along with the endive they add a crunch and crispness to the luxuriously velvety dish. This is edible proof that you cannot judge a book by its cover.

Steak 'n' Shake giving away free meals for a year

(A Steak 'n' Shake "single" -- the "original" boasts two patties -- with thin fries cut on premises)

My family can attest that as soon as my plane lands at Indianapolis International Airport for a visit home, and I send a text message to my mom that I am headed to their house, without asking it is usually assumed that I want my first hometown meal to be at Steak 'n' Shake.  I have actually written letters to the corporate office begging for a location in New York City on multiple occasions.

Well, according to Eater, the first ever Steak 'n' Shake Signature line (beer and wine will be served) will open in midtown tomorrow on Broadway and 53rd, just next door to the Ed Sullivan Theater, and home of the David Letterman Show.  According to the article, the first 150 people in line will be awarded free meals for a year.  I have agonized over heading there later today, but given my serious resolve to be healthier in the new year, 365 days of burgers and fries may not be the best idea.

I predict that this chain is going to really shake up (pun intended) the competition.  An "original" with fries is going for just $4, and that's a double patty.  The patties, known as "steak burgers" are a blend of ribeye and New York strip, extremely thin, and seared to a crispy outer coating and juicy inside.  They have been my mother's favorite burger for as long as I can remember.

(Strawberry milkshake with hot fudge)

Milkshakes are outrageous, and if the signature line is anything like the other locations, they do milkshake sundaes, as well as several sinful combinations.  Sadly, the Signature menu is only a pared downed menu, featuring just burgers, fries, and shakes.  While this is a step in the right direction, I think NYC really needs to taste the Chili Mac Supreme... (corporate, can you hear me?!?)  Also, this location will only be open from 10AM to midnight (according to the website's store locator), unlike the 24 hour versions in Indy.

(The Chili Mac Supreme has yet to make it to the Big Apple)

Butcher Bar now serving lunch

(The 50/50--smoked brisket & pulled pork--topped with the house blend of sharp & mild cheddar and muenster) 

Butcher Bar (37-08 30th Ave, Astoria)

The very first week it opened, Butcher Bar was such an overwhelming hit that lunch service had to be suspended simply to accommodate the massive catering orders that came soaring in.  One visit to the pristine space that promises to outshine even some of the best smokehouses in Manhattan and Brooklyn, and it doesn’t take a cowboy to realize that something extraordinary is going on here. Luckily for patrons, lunch service resumed last week.

The decor is part museum, part general store, part library--all homage to great butchers who served as inspiration.

“There are so many important issues sourcing meats,” explains co-owner Matthew Katakis, “we decided doing it ourselves is the best way to ensure the highest quality.”  A tour of the entire facility reveals not a single freezer.  “I won’t even get a freezer for ice cream for the apple pie,” laughs Katakis.  The always-fresh rotating boutique selection of meats changes daily.  The unused portions are cooked off and donated to City Harvest.

The setup is part boutique butcher, part restaurant.  At the meat counter, stocked daily with a selection of fresh meats and homemade sausages, customers can choose cuts and patties to take home, or opt to dine in at one of the tables in the front restaurant portion.  Takeout and dine-in customers may also choose to order from the carver by the 1/4 pound from a selection of 12-hour slow smoked brisket, pulled pork, house-roasted turkey, pork belly, and daily sausage specials.

Regardless your decision, it would be a sin not to order at least 1/4 pound of their double-smoked burnt ends--the delicacy of excellent barbecue. The crispy smokey coating gives way to cubes of brisket rendered unbelievably tender and sweet.

Bob's burger is a 1/2-lb patty blended with brisket and smoked bacon, offering a saltiness and moisture that I found to be an absolutely superior combination, drizzled with BBQ (we added mild cheddar--though it would be fantastic without).  All sandwiches are served with classic cole slaw and a pickle.

Perfectly rectangular racks of St. Louis -style ribs are like a culinary BBQ playground--excessively sticky, sweet, and ridiculously tender, with a lot of meat on the bone... some of the most superior ribs I have ever enjoyed.

The food is refreshingly straightforward, with no gimmicks.  An extremely enthusiastic staff eagerly answers questions, and provides exceptional service (a complimentary slice of apple pie arrives at the end of the meal on some evenings).  Ask to see the backyard area (where summer barbecues will commence in the warm season) or to take a peak at the Combi oven--a combination cooker that allows the control of humidity with dry or steam cooking--ideal for meats, as well as baking.

Sides are served picnic style in cardboard boats, offering a country touch.  Mac & cheese is creamy and delicious (the imported organic noodles are available for sale).  Green beans have a kiss of smoked bacon.  Baked beans are sweet and tangy.  Potato wedges arrive golden or sweet.  Mini corn cakes are served with warm honey butter.

Everything sold both at the counter and in the dining room is aimed to be local, fresh, and organic.  “Our number one priority, however, is on really knowing the farms where we purchase,” explains Katakis.  The products are all free of any growth hormones or prophylactic antibiotics, and strictly avoid all contained animal feedlot operations.  The dining room décor, part museum, part general store, part library pays homage to other great butchers who served as inspiration.  But it probably won’t be long at all before patrons start heralding Butcher Bar as one of those greats.

Click the menu to enlarge

The menu also offers catering options that include 3-ft. and 6-ft. natural heroes, as well as catered BBQ parties with whole spit-roasted lamb or pig.

Thinking outside the cookie jar -- Great holiday treats in Queens

Hand-painted marzipan at Terrizzi Pastry Shop

(A version of this article appears in the December issue of BORO magazine)

The holiday calendar is marked full of jovial festivities with family and friends—many of which call for bringing a treat in tote.  While not all of us  may be as equipped as New York’s first lady, Sandra Lee, to whip up a glorious semi-homemade dessert, we do have at our fingertips some pretty spectacular treats just around the corner, in a borough boasting some of the city’s best bakeries.

“I could eat these all day long,” laughs ‘Mamma’ Gianna Cerbone, owner of Manducatis Rustica.  Dating back to an 18^th century monastery in Salerno, Italy, sfogliatelle are one of the most difficult pastries to master.  Pastry dough is stretched out on a long table, lathered with butter, and rolled.  Sliced cross-sections are then formed into pockets, and stuffed with sweetened ricotta and citrus zest.  Served warm, the baked outer shell separates ever so slightly, creating layers of delightful golden crunch, which then yields to soft, warm pastry, and a citrusy cream filling.

***Mamma Gianna is offering a special for Boro readers for the month of December.  Present this article from BORO, and receive a box of 4 sfogliatelle and 4 cannoli (stuffed to order!) for $12.99 (usually $17).

If you thought popcorn was just for trimming the tree or hoovering while watching A Christmas Story marathons on television, this treat will turn your world upside down.  “I made my first version of this recipe when I was 6 years old,” reveals Chef Michele Addeo.  “It actually came rom Highlights magazine.”  Her grown-up version, now available at Sugar Freak, features a thick pudding studded with popcorn for texture, draped in a salted caramel sauce, and then capped with a snowfall of homemade cracker jack shavings.

If you’ve ever been that guest who reaches into the bowl of shiny polished fruit only to hear snickering from your dinner host who loves to display wooden imposters, this is your chance to get back.  Traditional holiday treats in Italy, marzipan are shiny little fruits and vegetables that are anything but “for display only.”  The meticulously hand-painted candy coating gives way to a soft and chewy almond-flavored center.  Terrizzi Pastry Shop has been making these edible sculptures since 1964.  Even though Mike Terrizzi took over the shop for his father, Frank, three years ago, “my dad still paints every single piece you see in the display by hand.”

Everyone has seen a chocolate fudge cake more than once or twice, but New Yorkers from all over have probably seen this particular cake more than they even realize.  If you’ve ever enjoyed this quintessential dessert at Pax Wholesome Foods, Europa Café, or any number of other delis throughout the city, you can stay in Queens and enjoy this decadent slice from the original source, Omonia Café.  That’s right, Omonia actually provides the sweets for many of the city’s busiest dessert cases, and this is one of their most popular. Devil’s food cake layered with actual fudge, crowned with glazed strawberries.  What’s not to love?

This Berry Napoleon first appeared on the menu of one of Astoria’s most famous bakeries just three years ago.  The creation of George Stertsios of Martha’s Country Bakery (the pie shop shares the name of his mother and newborn daughter), this mixed berry stack is a new twist on a classic.  The exquisite and delicious dessert begins with a flaky puff pastry crust—which is hand-rolled daily—layered with alternating tiers of angelically light vanilla pudding and fresh raspberries, blackberries, strawberries, and blueberries, all dusted with confectioner’s sugar.

Whether providing some holiday cheer for co-workers, or simply jazzing up a winter breakfast at home, the spreads at Brooklyn Bagel are second to none.  Using real, fresh, preservative-free Philadelphia cream cheese as the base, the creative team meets weekly to discuss and test new flavors. Popular holiday spreads include pumpkin and apple cinnamon.  The bagels are made with unbleached, unbromated flour, then hand-rolled and water-boiled for that extra snap. 

Though the typical New York residence doesn’t boast a fireplace large enough to burn the biggest tree you can chop down, you can still enjoy the European yule log tradition in its edible form. The white mocha yule log at Astor Bake Shop is “our version of the traditional yule log, even down to the little meringue mushrooms,” smiles Chef George McKirdy.  His elegant take is a coffee sponge cake layered with a milk chocolate cremeaux that has been rolled into a log, then blanketed with white vanilla butter cream, a white chocolate glaze, and a traditional meringue mushroom garnish.  One 8-inch log serves 6-8 guests (also available in other flavors like praline or chocolate).

If you stop by Malu bakery in Long Island City for these chocolate-covered Fritos, make sure you buy a small bag for the trip home.  Otherwise, it is not at all improbable that the confection will never last the journey to its intended guests.  A genius marriage of sweet and savory, those beloved little salty corn scoops are dipped in a milk chocolate, and served alongside several other homemade candies and ice cream at this gourmet ma and pa sweets shop.

The only thing even remotely crumby about his cake is the wonderfully buttery streusel topping that puts the “crumb” in crumb cake.  In fact, it might astound you that something this blitzed with juicy blueberries can even stay together, as the ratio of berries to actual cake seems dramatically askew.  It’s one of the most moist, delicious blueberry streusel coffee cakes to ever hit the neighborhood, and it’s born from the talents of Beverly Lauchner at Sweet Leaf.  Take one bite of this exceptional pastry, and you just might forget you even ordered the coffee to accompany it.

“The Gianna Special”

This favorite aperitif is the perfect way to kick off a holiday gathering, as the Aperol (somewhat like Campari) stimulates the appetite.  Versatile, however, it may be enjoyed between courses or after a meal, as well, as the blend also acts as a digestif.

Ingredients:

1 bottle of chilled Prosecco or Moscato d’Asti

½ cup of gelato (lemon, orange, kiwi, strawberry, or pear)

½ cup of Aperol (Italian aperitivo made from herbs, bitter orange, and rhubarb)

sliced persimmon wedges (or other fruit, such as strawberry) for garnish

Directions:

1)   pour a little bit of Prosecco into the gelato, and gently stir until it resembles a granita (no lumps).

2)   Pour the remainder of the Prosecco into your desired serving vessel.

3)   Carefully add the gelato, as it will form foam atop the effervescent wine.

4)   Drizzle the Aperol into the mixture.

5)   Pour into champagne flutes and garnish.

Serves 8 to 10 (or 2 to 4, depending on the direction you want the evening to go).  Show the BORO article at Manducatis Rustica throughout the month of December for $4 off your gourmet homemade gelato purchase of 500 or 1000 grams (usually $14 and $20 respectively).

Last-Minute Thanksgiving Restaurant Recommendations

(Stuffed chicken with carrot-ginger puree at Bear Restaurant)

No time to brine a turkey?  Or lunch is taken care of, but you just want to relax with friends and have something besides leftovers with mayo on bread for dinner?  Here are a few of my most highly recommended options (that are definitely open) in the neighborhood for enjoying a delicious Thanksgiving meal without slaving away over your own stove!

Baked ziti at Ornella Trattoria

It is no secret that one of my favorite restaurants in all of New York City is Ornella Trattoria (29-17 23rd Ave).  Not only is the regional Italian cuisine some of the most delicious anywhere, but the family that runs the restaurant is one of the most loving and wonderful families I have ever met... truly my own New York City family away from home.  Giuseppe, Ornella, and their sons welcome you into their restaurant as though you were beloved kin.  With well over a hundred menu options (they'll make you things not even on the menu), there really isn't a place that feels more like home anywhere.  Check out their unique homemade pastas (made from chickpea flour or chestnut flour), or try the imbustata (chicken, veal, mushroom, spinach, and mascarpone stuffed pasta envelope baked in robust tomato sauce and fresh mozzarella).  Every thing here is exceptional, and made with genuine love.

The Bison Burger with homemade B.B.Q. sauce, jalapenos, crispy onion strings & pepper jack

Following its initial soft opening, Burger Club (32-02 30th Ave) has drastically upped its game.  With just a few minor modifications, this place has proven it is around to stay... with some of the most incredible burger options in the neighborhood.  The ingredients are fresh, prepared to order (try the beer battered onion rings or mozzarella fritters with prosciutto), and available in every combination imaginable.  Start off with the braised short rib and melted cheddar loaded fries, chow down on a juicy Pat LaFrieda blend of chuck and hanger steak on buttery challah, and finish up with a peanut butter banana malted chocolate ball milkshake.  This place is as All-American as it gets, and without any gimmicks.  For Thanksgiving, they promise to offer some traditional Turkey Day specials.  Plus their liquor license is ready within a few weeks.

Sweet potato gnocchi in browned butter sage sauce with romano cheese

I am crazy in love with the family and the cuisine at Long Island City's newest restaurant, Bear (12-14 31st Ave).  Be sure to check out their wonderful Thanksgiving 5-course prix fixe served from 3-10PM.   While they are offering traditional Thanksgiving items, I highly recommend the sweet potato gnocchi in brown butter sage sauce with shaved Romano.  Then again, the sea scallops are succulent and enormous, served with a vibrant autumn risotto. For elegance and beautifully executed plates as delicious as they look, this is one of the very best options.

TQK's killer mac & cheese

Their gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches are famous.  Their coffee and beverages are cutting edge.  The energy is tangible.  And there really is nothing less than glowing that can be said about The Queens Kickshaw (40-17 Broadway) and their wonderful crew.  And while the sandwiches and coffee may steal the spotlight, the sides are not to be missed.  This macaroni and cheese is out of control, with golden browned smoked mozzarella, gruyere, and cheddar studded with slivers of french green beans, all blanketed in a light tomato cream sauce.  I know I speak on behalf of the whole neighborhood when I say we are thankful to have The Queens Kickshaw just around the corner.

The Astor Bake Shop (12-23 Astoria Blvd) will be open until 4PM today.  Although the chocolate glazed pumpkin mousse cheesecake (below) is out of this world, don't skip over the savory options, like the triple decker croque madame (above).  The herb-seasoned fries and salted lemonade are must-try additions.  Chef McKirdy's baked treats are undeniably some of the finest anywhere, but don't be fooled.  This is much more than your average bake shop... the burgers and sandwiches are equally drool-worthy.  And yes, this is absolutely where I would swing by to grab a dessert to take to Thanksgiving if I really wanted to impress my friends and family.

Bear is officially open

Diver Sea Scallop with tomato and shitake mushroom barley risotto

Bear Restaurant & Bar (12-14 31st Ave., Long Island City)

As I wrote for Grub Street last week, Bear is officially open in Long Island City, bringing New European cuisine just a few blocks from Long Island City's Socrates Sculpture Park.  I am also pleased to share that my photographs of their fall dishes are featured on their website (checkout the cool slideshow on the homepage).  While I recently held an exclusive interview and spent some quality one-on-one time with the entire Pogrebinsky family who run Bear, that story (with new images) will be featured shortly in BORO Magazine.  Until then, here is my Grub Street article along with a few additional images.

The dining room is studded with Swarovski crystal chandeliers set into the walls, with Venetian-tiled floors, and a full-service granite-topped mosaic bar.

On the "New European" menu, consider the house appetizer, "3-Shot Vodka," a seasonally rotating trio of small bites served with a mini-carafe of vodka intended to jump-start the meal and whet the palate. "Bear Wings" are actually large duck wings served with an apple salad and blue cheese dipping sauce. 

Another house dish features Long Island duck slow-roasted with a whole granny smith apple, served with sunflower-oil-seared potatoes. Cocktails, wines, and several obscure craft beers (including two from the Great Lakes brewery in Cleveland) make up the drinks selection.

Talk about "Bear"ing a resemblance: Bear is owned and run by the Pogrebinsky family

Executive chef Natasha Pogrebinsky comes most recently from the Castello Plan in Brooklyn, but has studied in a few of New York's top kitchens, including at Park Avenue Seasons and as an apprentice to Salumeria Rosi's Cesare Casella. While initially just serving dinner and an abbreviated late-night menu (2 a.m. weekdays; 4 a.m. weekends), Bear will eventually serve lunch and brunch as well. The full opening menu (featuring my photographs!) may be seen here.