Cheap & Delicious: Mama's Empanadas on Steinway

(Maiz-wrapped cheese empanada at Mama's Empanadas)

Mama's Empanadas (32-41 Steinway)

Open Daily from 11AM-11PM (free delivery)

(718) 626-1272

When it's 2 o'clock in the afternoon on Steinway and there's a line to the door and every seat is taken with hungry customers hovering over finishing tables like starving vultures, it can only mean one of two things: 1) either the food is exceptional, or 2) it's extremely affordable.  It just so happens that Mama's Empanadas (not to be confused with the popular Manhattan hot pocket shop, Empanada Mama) falls under both categories.

Despite the fact that the menu lures in non-Latin lovers with nontraditional fillings like pepperoni pizza and even a Greek version with mozzarella, feta, and spinach--the vast majority of the clientele were Hispanic, which is always a good sign that something is being cooked right in the kitchen.

The stuffed pastries are available wrapped in maiz (corn-flour).

They can also be ordered in wheat-flour dough, and either fried or baked.

Classic beef, chicken, or cheese empanadas are also available "cocktail" size, like little sliders, and only 80 cents a piece!  The full-sized empanadas range from $1.30 to $1.75.  

Topping the menu at a whopping $2.45 is a shrimp-scallop-crabmeat empanada called the Biagra (yes, the counter attendant giggled when I ordered it.)

Wacky, but delicious was the mac & cheese empanada ($1.60).  We also really enjoyed the cheese steak with juicy strips of beef, peppers, onions, and creamy cheddar.

They even offer a selection of dessert empanadas (including an "Elvis" with peanut butter and bananas), and the USA (apples and cinnamon with a dollop of ice cream and warm caramel) was one of the tastiest apple turnovers I've enjoyed in a long time, almost like an apple dumpling from the state fair.

I recommend trying each of the preparations.  Each empanada is made fresh, and none were greasy at all.  The maiz pockets had a super crunch followed by a more chewy textures inside, while the wheat-flour baked tasted like a pie crust, and fried tasted like a crispy tortilla.  Green and red salsas are available by request, as well as spicy mayo for dipping.

Several imported sodas are available, as well as yogurt shakes and mixed fruit cocktails.  They also offer arepas (stuffed corn cakes) and a selection of full dinner items, such as grilled steaks and plantains.

A value menu offers some pretty good specials like 2 empanadas & a drink for $3.15, or family size with 24 empanadas & a 2-liter for $31.20.

The dining area is clean and neat, and the service was extremely friendly (and fluently bilingual).  Only open a few weeks, it already seems to be a huge hit.  And for street snacks this tasty at a price so affordable, I have a feeling it's gonna be a longstanding fixture.  Hopefully it will become 24 hours like its other location in Jackson Heights (locations also in Sunnyside and Elmhurst, by the Queen's Center Mall).

The delicious world of Mundo Café & Restaurant

Mundo Café & Restaurant (31-18 Broadway Store #E, on 32nd just off of Broadway in Astoria)

The very second you sink into a parlor chair and begin to fully take in the surroundings, you are likely to rub your eyes with your fists before glancing two or three times beyond the window to the street just to make certain you are really in Astoria, and not whizzed through some whimsical porthole that collects characters, decor, aromas, and flavors from every culture in its path.  Two dozen serenely glowing lucellino light bulbs soar over the center of the room in a goose-winged Ingo Maurer chandelier.

Gourds are transformed into a Turkish variation on stained glass Tiffany lampshades, and the walls are adorned with rotating installations by local artists.  Like a colorful storybook narrator magically brought to life, Guillermo Lucerofabbi immediately approaches our table in a chocolate sport coat with a cartoon heart pin on the lapel, welcoming us into the culinary fantasy land he has created along with his Turkish partner, Canalp Caner, who is the brains behind the inventive menu.  A charismatic and handsome Argentine, Guillermo is the epitome of a host, and we immediately feel as though we have been sincerely welcomed into a friend's home for dinner.

When we ask to peruse the wine list, his face saddens apologetically, as he explains that the liquor license is being renewed, temporarily rendering them BYOB... but with the business card he presents us, we can purchase a discounted bottle of wine from the store a few blocks up the street.  He holds our table, and within a few minutes we are seated again as he corks our $10 bottle of wine. (Note: I received notice that their liquor license was just renewed, so their cool beverage selection is back in business!)

Although we now have a bottle of wine, I always like something lighter to accompany my meal, as well. Refreshingly, Mundo serves no soft drinks, just one of many healthy, yet delicious facets of this incredibly unique little gem.  Instead of a cola, I try a deliciously tart, Turkish sour cherry juice that I dilute just a little with my water.  Even the water here is healthy, featuring high alkaline, ionized, PH-balanced Kangen water, based on Japanese technology.

With an owner team of an Argentine host and a Turkish chef, a German chandelier, french parlor chairs, Astoria artwork, and Japanese cooking water, we had no idea what to expect from the menu.  So when the menu singles out one dish as a "must-try signature" we could only assume it was a reasonable place to start.

Herbivores will find a simple coding system on the menu extremely helpful, identifying close to twenty dishes and sides that are vegetarian, half of which are also vegan.  The signature "Red Sonja" are one selection that qualify as vegan, though had I been blindfolded, the kaleidoscope of flavors rival even the heartiest appetizers I have tried.  Four red lentil quenelles of bulgur (cracked wheat), scallion, parsley, and a blend of oriental spices are served on wraps of lusciously green bibb lettuce with lemon wedges for a citrusy zing.  These outrageously flavorsome patties taste almost like little unwrapped herbed dumplings, or dollops of a robust bolognese sauce.  And for $7.50 for four, it's one of tastiest and most affordable deals I have enjoyed in Astoria.

Perhaps my favorite dish of the evening was a gorgeous and unique appetizer, the Peruvian Causa ($8).  Yellow potatoes are mashed into a creamy puree and blended with aji amarillo yellow chile paste and fresh dill, then layered in a terrine with earthy mushrooms, pickled beets, and topped with creamy avocado, red onion, and fresh red and green peppers.  Like a heavenly spin on leftovers, this dish is presented chilled, which only serves to magnify the colorful flavors even more.

The much-heated discussion of the Astoria burger battle seems to have erroneously left out what I now consider to be one of the top contenders.  The burger a-la-mundo is one of the most delicious, moist, and unique burgers I have enjoyed recently.

This Turkish style patty blows most of the competition out of the water.  Guillermo explained that they choose their own meat cuts from a neighborhood butcher, and then have it ground, ensuring only the highest quality beef makes it into each of their burgers.  The burger is then topped with caramelized onions and sauteed mushrooms, and served on fresh, warm, rosemary focaccia. If you claim to love burgers, this is one you simply have to try.

Don't be turned off by the $16 price tag.  Besides the fact it's one of the largest, most savory burgers around, it also comes with a heaping pile of freshly cut oregano-seasoned fries and a substantial house salad.

A generous bowl of Ottoman manti are some of the best dumplings around ($15).  Tender, miniature pasta pillows are stuffed with exquisitely tender, seasoned ground beef, then topped with a blanket of garlic, butter, mint, and creamy yogurt.  The flavors are simple and fresh, and served with a ramekin of ground sumac to add by the pinch for a little extra, earthy spice.

Put a clay pot crowned with golden melted cheese and crispy brown bits around the edges, and I really could care less what's inside.   How can you possibly go wrong?  This warm entree was a simply wonderful casserole of large, sweet, tender prawns in a spiced tomato and mushroom sauce, almost like a cajun seafood stew straight from the bayou.  Once it cooled enough to devour by the spoonful, the succulent shrimp and gooey ribbons of melted cheese disappeared embarrassingly quickly.  We even tore off some of the rosemary focaccia bun from the burger to dab up the last bits of sauce, tender mushrooms, and browned cheese.

Though it came as a side dish with the shrimp casserole, I would highly recommend a $5 side order of the herbed couscous.  Tiny little al dente orbs of pasta with a sprig of fresh rosemary make for the perfect side accompaniment.

Regardless of what you choose to order, it would be a sin not to save room for the flourless chocolate souffle.  Turn in the order ahead of time as this dessert requires a little extra preparation.  But the molten mug of baked Belgian chocolate is beyond worth the wait.  We found ourselves scraping the gooey overflowed bits from the side once we had emptied the actual mug.  It doesn't get better than rich spoonfuls of decadent warm fudge with all natural vanilla bean ice cream.

For a slightly less rich, but equally delicious option, I highly recommend the cinnamon-dusted semolina helva, studded with pine nuts, walnuts, and pistachios.  A traditional Turkish dessert, this warm and moist, wintery, dome of buttery nuts houses a cool dollop of vanilla bean ice cream, almost like Christmas on a plate.  Although all of the desserts contain dairy, vegans should call ahead to inquire... sometimes, Mundo also serves up a vegan version of their chocolate souffle.

By the time we finished our sweet endings, dinner service had drawn to a close.  Out front on the closed in porch, Chef Canalp decompressed on a couch with one of his cooks, while inside Guillermo circulated among the few remaining tables, sharing stories and jokes as if we were all in his own living room.  When we left, we gave him hugs, because he's that kind of guy you simply want to squeeze.  And as we exited, Canalp paused from conversation to smile, and thank us for coming in to visit.  With extremely satisfied appetites and souls, we were actually a little sad to leave.

To keep it fresh for a dining room of many loyal regulars, the menu rotates almost as frequently as the art exhibitions.  As the dining room only accommodates a little over twenty diners, reservations are recommended.  Mundo Cafe & Restaurant is open daily from 5 to 10:30PM, and 4 to 10PM on Sundays.  They are closed on Wednesdays.

Farid's Place dishes out sassy, sexy, delicioso Colombian cuisine

(Shredded beef empanada at Farid's Place)

Farid's Place (25-98 Steinway, Astoria)

(718) 777-1410

"Ahrrrrrrrrrr-ROSE con lehhhhhh-chay..."  The flipped r's come soaring out of her mouth like an edible song, and her smile brightens the table as she proudly positions the dessert before me.

"Ohhhhhhhh... now I understand... rice pudding!!!" I ignorantly respond as I begin drooling, staring at the creamy goblet of cinnamon-dusted warm rice with thick, sweetened milk (arroz con leche, or rice with milk).

"You call it 'rize pooh-ding'?!?" Claudia (pronounced "cloud-ee-uh") protests.  "Which sounds better to you?  'Hey, waitress, I want some rize pooh-ding' or 'arrrrrrrrrrrrrrr-ROSE con lehhhhhh-chay por favor...'"  We both laugh, and she knows she's right.  Anything sounds more delicious in Spanish, or any romance language, for that matter.  It  reminded me of a brilliant Kahlua commercial I recently saw.

The rice pudding is, in fact, heavenly.  Then again, I've enjoyed almost everything I've tried here in the three meals I've had over the course of the past two weeks.

This Colombian gem is sort of camouflaged at the end of a hookah-dotted strip of Steinway often referred to as Little Egypt.  The name, Farid's Place, seems like a logical addition to the various neighboring kebab and falafel counters.  Although Farid himself is of Lebanese descent, he is also partially Puerto Rican.  But it's the family recipes of his lovely Colombian wife, Claudia, that fuels the menu at this newly opened Latin American kitchen that has taken over the former location of Luna de Juarez.  With a beautifully rejuvenated restaurant, the owners have met some difficulty securing liquor licenses.  It turns out the space was actually zoned for a medical office with a capacity of eight people, although the two previous restaurants served alcohol.  Though Farid's is presently BYOB, a new license is expected within the next few weeks.  Once you can grab a Corona or sangria at the bar, expect this corner joint to be jam-packed.

Regardless of what you order, the secret recipe pica (or house spice) is one of the most delicious Latin hot sauces I've ever tasted.  Moderately hot, this zippy condiment is loaded with tons of garlic, various peppers, and plenty of cilantro.

On my first visit to Farid's I had briefly stopped by for a small lunch.  Knowing I had a tasting event later that evening, I committed to refrain from my usual style, and simply ordered two empanadas and an ice water.  The cheese empanadas are undeniably the best I have enjoyed in Astoria.  These half moon pastry pockets are made daily in-house, and loaded with soft, creamy queso blanco.  Fried to crispy perfection, yet not greasy at all, for $2.00 a piece these Latin stuffed pies are one of the best deals in the neighborhood.  Pairing one with a shrimp empanada made a delicious lunch for only 4 bucks!  Perhaps the kindest server I have had in months, Maria was extremely concerned, certain that I'd be tempted enough that I'd be unable to resist ordering something else.  I assured her the empanadas had served their purpose, and that I would undoubtedly return on a day when I could devote more stomach space.  She laughed when I stood eagerly in the doorway only two days later.

Also only $2 each are the piquant shrimp empanadas, similarly folded into a crisp fried flour pastry, stuffed with rice, peppers, tomatoes, and tender shrimp.  They are practically perfect empanadas, golden and crispy on the outside, tender baked dough inside, with a surprisingly moist seafood filling that miraculously doesn't compromise the crisp coating.

The even better steal on the menu are the chicken or shredded beef empanadas, which also come loaded to bursting with seasoned vegetables and tender meats.  These little guys are only $1.50, and come wrapped in a corn flour pastry instead, which adds a deliciously chewy crunch to the empanada.

Weekday lunch specials offer significantly reduced price versions of featured dinner items.  One of my favorites has been the top flank steak with creole sauce and fried egg.  Though $11 at dinner is still reasonable for this dish, it's only $6.99 on Thursdays at lunch.  A thin, grilled flank steak is blanketed with a garlicky red pepper and tomato creole sauce that's loaded with boiled cassava, almost like thick and extra hearty cubes of rich potato.  It's all topped with a perfectly fried egg.

Many selections are also accompanied by a rather large, basic house salad.

When I asked Claudia her favorite dish on the menu, she recommended a traditional Colombian favorite, Cazuela de Mariscos, which is executed here to spectacular degree.  This thick and hearty seafood casserole is an enormous clay pot loaded with prawns, scallops, ridiculously tender octopus and calamari, as well as julienned strips of broiled flounder, all swimming in a thick, creamy, tomato bisque.  Served with a side salad, french fries, and rice, it's more than enough to share.  With such delicious seafood morsels almost spilling over the top, it's well worth the $19 for this Colombian classic.

If you are dining with a large group, I highly recommend the picada de la casa.  Take a look at the Coke can beside this gargantuan platter for a scale reference.  $23 buys a heaping pile of assorted fried goodies.

Fried green plantain, creole potatoes, chorizo, steak, and yucca (all pictured above) are also jumbled in with fluffy arepas (corn cakes), fried short ribs, and pork skin.  It's entirely too much for one person, but wonderfully crisp and salty.

If you aren't brave (or famished) enough to tackle the whole platter, I actually highly recommend the fried creole potatoes, which are also available as a side dish.  These tender golden spuds are crusted in a crunchy and earthy, salty skin that adds delicious flavor and texture dimensions.

Or simply try the fried steak, which is also one of the weekday specials.  Drizzled with a little pica and spicy remoulade, it won the award for "perfect bite," tasting every bit as delicious as it looks.

Soup specials change daily, as well, ranging from oxtail beef stew to pigeon pea soup to the savory hen soup (pictured above), which was loaded with a rich chicken broth that saturated generous cubes of tender potato, and whole pieces of thigh and drumsticks.  These soups are intended as meals by themselves, and come in heaping ceramic cauldrons for $7 or $8.

Wednesdays feature a gorgeously grilled pork chop for just $6.99, which I ordered topped with a sweet, caramelized plantain.  Forget pork chops and apple sauce when you can get it topped with a Colombian bananas foster.  

Although these golden grilled pork chops are seasoned just enough, be sure to ask for a side ramekin of the chimichurri sauce, a peppery garlic and onion condiment that adds the perfect amount of tang and vinegar to cut the rich chop.

Although I try not to fill up on side dishes like rice and beans, they were exceptionally tasty, and were devoured alongside everything else.  Other side dish options include various plantain preparations, lentils, and french fries.

While the arroz con leche is tasty, the true measure of a Latin dessert menu for me is often the quality of it's flan.  The flan at Farid's Place is angelically light and smooth, like a buttery cloud of caramel custard.  Served in a heart-shaped dessert bowl, the bottom is filled with almost a half inch of the  bronzed sauce, enough to guarantee the last bite is just as decadent and sweet as the first.  Hands down, one of the best flans around.

The award for most deliciously unique dessert using ingredients I would never have fathomed to combine goes to the brevas con areguipe y queso (candied figs with caramel and cheese).  Imagine figs that have been boiled in sugar water until tender, then chilled, and canned in sweet syrup.  Now carefully slice those figs into quartered petals, arranged alternating with wedges of firm, pressed queso blanco.  Finally, blanket the fruit and cheese with a thick dollop of homemade caramel.  It's actually areguipe (also called dulce de leche), and at Farid's they boil the milk and sugar for over three hours until it reduces to an exquisite caramel topping.  Tart and tender candied figs with slightly salty queso and a luxuriously smooth and sticky caramel.  It was out of this world wonderful.

The final sweet touch (besides a reasonably priced bill) are imported Colombian after dinner candies.  The Maxti (left) wins the prize for best post-meal wrapped candy.  Tiny little bricks of milk chocolate with an espresso bean inside.

Farid's Place also offers free delivery.