Mediterranean Morsels at Morso

View of the Queensboro Bridge from a park in Sutton Place, just down the street from Morso

Morso, 420 E. 59th St., NYC; (212) 759-2706 

After nine years living in New York City, it wasn't until I was invited to dinner at Morso that I realized what an unofficial and somewhat unfortunate meridian Second Avenue serves, especially at the mouth of the Queensboro Bridge.  Other than the sky tram to Roosevelt Island or taking the lower level to Long Island City, I have never really ventured east of Second.  Arriving a few minutes early for dinner, I took advantage of the time to explore the street that to the north becomes York, and Avenue A farther south.  Neither York nor Alphabet City, this small stretch of street known as Sutton Place is one of the most affluent in Manhattan, having served as home to Kenneth Cole, Sigourney Weaver, Freddie Mercury, Michael Jackson, and even Marilyn Monroe and Arthur Miller.  The townhouses are beautiful--even more so, the views of the East River, the bridge, and Long Island City in Queens.  If planning a visit to Morso, I would absolutely recommend a stroll along Sutton Place to visit one of the small parks along the river.

Despite the rather exclusive surrounding neighborhood, Morso is extremely inviting.  Vibrant poster art commissioned specifically for the restaurant livens the border of the dining room, and an extremely friendly, accessible menu, features Italian and mediterranean dishes available either in large (tutto) or small (morso) portions, ideal for sharing a variety of plates.  It's the inspiration for the name, after all.

From the "Egg & Cheese" portion of the menu (a rotating daily egg dish is available at dinner), the gorgonzola fritters are a delicious harmony of temperatures, textures, and flavors, with crunchy crusted creamy gorgonzola on a bed of frisee with roasted pears, spiced walnuts, and a tangy apple cider vinaigrette.

The farro salad is a surprisingly hearty garden-inspired dish with tender farro grains, colorfully tart apricots, and earthy, meaty portobello and grilled eggplant.

Homemade pastas range from cannelloni florentine stuffed pasta rolls, to pappardelle blanketed with brisket-porcini ragout, as well as a classic take on spaghetti carbonara with savory bits of guanciale, onions, pecorino, and creamy egg yolk (pictured).

One of the most memorable bites of the evening was the capesante, sautéed scallops on a bed of black rice with piquant cubes of chorizo and roasted pepper, similar to what a south american risotto.  But the element that drew together the buttery shellfish with spicy sausage was a drizzle of a sweet and citrusy limoncello reduction.

The lamb chops, though flawlessly grilled and quite perfect, were only a secondary character to a side component that stole my favor from the entire evening--the chef's creative take on moussaka--a crispy crusted eggplant rollatini stuffed with minced merquez (lamb sausage) and feta, on a bed of white beans with a creamy mint sauce.  Rather than merely a side garnish, it was equally, if not more outstanding, than the chops.

A small, yett satisfying selection of desserts range from the Torta Napolitana (pictured), a decadently smooth neapolitan cheesecake studded with marsala-soaked dried fruit with a fresh strawberry puree, to an espresso hazelnut cake roll, as well as a selection of sorbet, gelato, and petit fours which change daily.

Ovelia: Still Fresh After 5 Years

(The Lamburgini--lamb burger on pretzel bun with crimini mushrooms & feta cream sauce)

Ovelia Psistaria & Bar (34-01 30th Ave.)

The edited version of this article appears in the November 2011 issue of BORO.

Tradition whimsically blurs with the contemporary in both culinary approach and ambiance at Ovelia Psistaria—the beloved Greek restaurant that celebrates half a decade of business this December.  Outside, the café appears no glaringly different from the handful of others nearby.

Patrons sip frappes along Astoria’s Grand Avenue while noshing on such classics as a decadently creamy version of an onion-studded garlicky hummus with tender pita points, arguably some of the finest in this Greco-centric neighborhood.

Inside, reality slowly breaks, giving way to creativity and invention.  Electronic butterflies gently flap their wings amidst the planters above the banquettes.  On the mezzanine, a torso-less glam rock mannequin is caught with his pants around his Technicolor ankles.

At the bar—an enormous concrete slab studded with tiny pulsing fiber optic dots overlooking a glass-paneled garage door—regulars grow giddy on Rakomelo, a cardamom-laced moonshine served warm in a teapot.    

The vibrant and eclectic décor is thanks to Chris Giannakas, the charming and charismatic criminal-law-student-turned-restaurateur who runs the front of the house operations.  But he’s only one-fourth of the family team behind Ovelia.  His brother and Executive Chef, Pete, was finishing his Ph.D. from NYU at Mt. Sinai when the two decided to launch a new restaurant in Astoria.  “There was no way we were going to even try this unless we had our dad in the kitchen…” asserts Chris.  “It’s a little different cooking for forty instead of four, and [dad] has been cooking professionally for almost 40 years”  When father and mother, Ioannis and Evangelia Giannakas, agreed to climb aboard, the sons knew they had a recipe for success.

The menu at Ovelia brings together favorite Giannakas family dishes.  Yiayia’s omelette, an egg casserole with French fries and feta, was a favorite made by Chris and Pete’s grandmother growing up.  The monastiraki bifteki (classic ground beef and lamb kebabs) are affectionately named after a store frequented by their parents on dates.

And while mom and dad tackle the traditional Greek portion of the Ovelia menu, Chef Pete brings modern flare to the kitchen with his inventive fare.  Though saganaki, a classic flame-broiled cheese, is offered as hot meze, the menu also boasts giant cubes of creamy feta that have been dipped in a sesame batter and fried, then drizzled with honey.  Lamb is prepared in the psistaria “grill house” tradition (the name Ovelia refers to the ritual of cooking lamb on a spit over an open flame).  But less conventional diners may want to tackle the exceptionally delicious “Lamburgini,” a tender lamb burger with sautéed crimini mushrooms, drizzled with a feta cream sauce, all on a house made bretzel (a soft pretzel bun jeweled with rock salt crystals).

Rock n’ Ribs Wednesdays feature an entirely different menu, with house smoked ribs, pulled pork, brisket, and marshmallow candied sweet potatoes.  Their new raw bar receives shipments of little neck clams and blue point oysters twice a week.  The organic, locavore weekend brunch features hearty open-faced sandwiches like the chip drip (with shaved ham, sautéed mushrooms, mozzarella, and hollandaise) or the shredded skirt steak with sofrito, both topped with an egg.  “It can be expensive having such diverse, high quality ingredients,” admits Chris, “but when you invest that kind of commitment, people really can taste the difference.”

Seasonal Savorings: Awakening Your Autumn Appetite

(Sauvignon Blanc Jelly at Rèst-âü-Ránt)

(This article was originally published in edited form the Oct '11 issue of Boro Magazine)

As New Yorkers begin to pack away their sandals, shorts, and swimsuits in exchange for denim, wool, and a warmer wardrobe, so also do the city’s eateries hibernate their summer fare in exchange for autumn menus of more comforting cuisine that no longer threatens to compromise bikini curves.  Here is a rundown of some of the seasonal stars now showcased on the menus of four of the neighborhood’s favorite restaurants.

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Few menus in the neighborhood evolve as frequently as Ornella Trattoria, where chef-owner Giuseppe Viterale daily scours the local markets for inspiration to reinvent his favorite regional Italian dishes.  While the weekly specials remain the same (Monday $14.95 Steak Night, Tuesday 1½  lb lobster over seafood pasta for $21, Wednesday any chicken dish for $13, and Thursday any pasta special for $10), Ornella introduces three exceptional new brunch items for the fall.

Hangover Pasta will shatter any notions you had that noodles cannot satiate a brunch craving.  Homemade pappardelle is boiled in milk, adding a unique texture and sweetness to the broad pasta ribbons which are then tossed with savory bits of bacon, a drizzle of truffle oil, and topped with a fried egg—sort of like a carbonara gone crazy.

Classic Italian Lard Bread laced with tender slices of shredded peppered bacon arrives at Ornella via Williamsburg, where it is then transformed into a luxurious pedestal for eggs benedict, a delicious upgrade from the standard muffin.

The Roman Fried Cheese Sandwich could overtake any competitor grilled cheese in a cage fight.  Ornella’s spin on a classic spiedini alla romana, homemade foccacia is generously stuffed with fresh mozzarella, fried, and then blanketed with a creamy reduction of brandy, anchovies, shallots, and capers.

In college, Giuseppe Viterale perfected his personal espresso, and if you coax him, he just might do it tableside for you.  Granulated sugar receives the first few drops of the percolated brew, which he then vigorously whips by hand into an espresso marshmallow, which dissolves into a sweet cap of foam floating atop the Italian coffee.

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The menu at El Ay Si has been described as eclectic and global, but regardless of labels, it’s universally comforting and tasty—also generously portioned and reasonably priced.  Happy Hour extends Wednesday through Sunday from 4-7PM with $5 well drinks, $4 pints, $6 wines, and $8 specialty cocktails, and Bingo on Sundays. Mark your calendar for an old-school Prohibition & Flapper Halloween Party on Sunday, October 30^th.

An iron skillet of rotini spirals swimming in béchamel, studded with applewood smoked bacon, and crowned with golden-baked cheese, this comfort classic is addictively straightforward and soothing.

Both nostalgic and scrumptious, heaping piles of crunchy tater tots are a must-have addition to any meal for just five bucks.  And if you’re up for a splurge, they can arrive “disco style” with white gravy and cheddar, or even loaded with three-bean veggie chili and cheese.

When it comes to nachos, this gargantuan platter isn’t playing around; there’s a reason this monster appears under “Mains” rather than “Small Bites”.  Homemade tortilla chips remain miraculously crunchy, even when partnered with any of the eight topping options—or better yet, “the works” (pictured), with everything from skirt steak and grilled chicken to chili and avocado.

No, you didn’t misread the menu.  That dish is called Chicken Fried Chicken.  It’s a traditional name for country fried chicken, referring to the manner in which it is prepared.  Even steak can be “chicken fried.”  But the country chicken platter at El Ay Si would have a challenge finding a rival.  Juicy chicken coated in crispy batter arrives on a pillow of smashed potatoes, all with a peppered white gravy, and a side of buttery green beans.

You haven’t tasted a hush puppy until you’ve enjoyed one of these jalapeno sweet corn fritters.  Packing the perfect punch of spice, these golden breaded orbs are dipped in a ramekin of pure honey for the ultimate harmony of savory and sweet.

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Whether sharing Cavo's small plates like the veal meatballs stuffed with sheep’s milk cheese in the outdoor sunken garden, or settling down for an intimate meal in Astoria’s most glamorous dining room with cathedral ceilings and contemporary chandeliers soaring what seems like miles overhead, it doesn’t take long to see the artwork on the plate is just as spectacular as the surroundings.  Fall specials include a free bottle of wine with the purchase of two entrees on Mondays, 1/2 price on all entrees on Tuesdays, 50% off the manager’s wine list on Wednesdays, Thursdays Ladies Night Speciqaals, and $20 sangria pitchers each Sunday.

Black angus short ribs are slowly braised for four hours to fall-apart-at-the-touch tenderness, showcased on a dollop of creamy polenta, and then draped with an exquisite red wine reduction with fall vegetables, and a kiss of microgreens.  This mastepiece pairs beautifully with a bottle of Amethystos, a full-bodied charismatic “wine of drama” from the vineyards of Greece.

Striped pasta pockets are stuffed with four Greek cheeses, then served in a creamy feta sauce with a drizzle of truffle oil.  One of the area’s most unique ravioli dishes, it is an absolute must for any pasta-lover.

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It may seem slightly hidden off-the-beaten path, but Rèst-âü-Ránt is just a block away from the 36^th Ave N/Q line, and worth every step.  Featuring an extensive selection of wine, beer, and cocktails, this cozy corner kitchen is the ideal place to share a snack with friends.  Local comedians take the spotlight on Tuesdays at 10PM, music showcases at 9PM on Thursdays, and plans are underway for a Halloween costume party.  The diverse menu ranges from dumplings to fondue, but the fall specials are inspired by the grape harvest season.

A flatbread of homemade focaccia is spread with fresh goat cheese, halved red grapes, and sprigs of rosemary, toasted in the oven.

A trio of Organic North Shore Long Island Sliders are basted in a shallot-merlot reduction, topped with velvety melted gorgonzola, tomato, and a frisee salad, all sandwiched on Turkish somun bread from local Pain D’Avignon Bakery.

Proof that dessert can be light and refreshing, this gorgeously inventive jelly is made from sauvignon blanc and jeweled with whole white grapes, served with a mint sprig and a dollop of fresh cream—reason enough alone to make a visit.

Would you prefer your octopus permanent press or delicate?

Thalassa (179 Franklin Street, Tribeca)


After watching "Turkey a la Queens," one of my favorite episodes of The Fabulous Beekman Boys (the hilarious and tender story of two city-boys-turned-farmers, and the only reality show of which I willingly admit to being a fan), I had to begin to wonder what other bizarre, untraditional techniques might lie beneath some of my favorite dishes, but I just never knew.  During the particular episode, Josh (author, ad exec, and former drag queen) and his partner Brent (former VP for Martha Stewart's Healthy Living) feed a vodka cran-tini to their Thanksgiving turkey just moments before beheading it.  The reasoning?  "Giving the turkey alcohol helps relax all of the muscles so that the bird will be perfectly tender and delicious."

I started thinking about various meat presentations I have enjoyed (or not-so-enjoyed) over the years, and had to wonder if the farmers had just thrown a few cocktail hours for their heifers, how much better the meat might have tasted.

Without question, one of the meats that can be splendidly decadent and delicious if prepared properly, or tougher than a ten-year-old gummy worm if not, is the temperamental seafood delicacy, octopus.  At it's best, it requires nothing more than a little oil and a small Greek salad accompanying it, and you have a feast fit for Neptune himself; at it's worst, it's a TMJ-sufferers most hideous nightmare.

During a recent visit to Thalassa, an exquisite Greek restaurant in Tribeca, I enjoyed what was--beyond any shadow of a doubt--the most gorgeously tender octopus ever to cross my palate.  It required no knife whatsoever, and the fork literally slid through the dish as easily as through a warm pat of butter.  It was exponentially more tender than any previous version I have tried, or any future I am likely to encounter.  And quite honestly, it stunned me.  Even more shocking, however, was the chef's candid response when I asked him his secret to preparing such magnificently tender octopus...

A washing machine!

That's right, Thalassa's Executive Chef Ralphael Abrahante has a washing machine designated for the sole purpose of tenderizing the Portuguese octopus before grilling it.  When questioned about the technique, he explained that you hear all sorts of crazy tactics typically employed, a common one involving the fisherman beating the octopus on the rocks repeatedly after catching them to tenderize the seafood.  Considering the alternative, a spin in the washing machine sounds exceptionally more humane.

After tenderizing the octopod, it is lightly seasoned with lemon juice and olive oil, grilled, and served with a simple fava bean and parsley puree, and finally garnished with a crown of organic microgreens.  It brings a whole new meaning to the phrase "clean flavors" making this traditional Greek dish simply delicious.  But the exquisitely tender appetizer is just the tip of the iceberg of the exceptional experience that awaits at Thalassa.

Upon entering, you step into a bar that instantly transports you into a Mediterranean reverie of every soothing and serene image you have dreamt Greece to be.  Billowing sails drape from the ceiling like a summer yacht on the Aegean Sea, a mosaic of white marble adorns the curves of a 15-ft bar that offers an award-winning selection of the over 5,000 bottles of wine housed in the cellar just one level below.  The lilting melodies of Greek-raised master guitarist, Spiros Exaras, sing on a gentle unassuming breeze throughout the room as he strums soothing tunes from a stool in the far corner.

Gliding past the peacefully aquatic blue-lit entrance you pass by a gorgeous collage of imported Mediterranean fish and crustaceans, to enter a stunningly simple and elegant dining room of soaring 18-ft ceilings, polished hardwood floors, exposed brick, and olive trees.

At the far end, a balcony reveals views of the climate-controlled Wine Room a level below, where two 20-ft illuminated transparent onyx columns connect the two floors with astounding contemporary Greek flare.  A wine rack spans the entire length of the room, featuring international and Greek boutique wines.  The architecture and decor is breathtakingly delicious, and that's before you even raise a glass or lift a fork.

In my experience, the paradox of Greek cuisine is the high level of difficulty required because of it's simplicity.  How many different ways can you vary lemon potatoes or porgies and hortas (and even more, who first decided that dandelion greens might be tasty?)  When dealing with simple ingredients, a few seasonings, and olive oil, there are no sauces or bread coatings to mask a poorly prepared filet of fish.  So technique and freshness are of the utmost importance.

The food at Thalassa exceeds the definition of traditional or even contemporary Greek cuisine.  While maintaining the simplicity and integrity of Greek tradition, Chef Ralphael has grandiosely surpassed what I ever expected a few fresh ingredients and a master chef could achieve.

Take, for instance, our amuse bouche offered compliments of the kitchen, this particularly refreshing spin on tuna tartare, served here on a crisp cucumber disc, topped with a creamy taramosalata and roe... proof that simple, quality, fresh ingredients provide an explosion of flavor and texture that require no masking whatsoever.

A quintessential example of traditional Greek elements harmonizing for an out-of-this-world symphony of flavors was my personal favorite dish of the evening, featuring Maine diver scallops.  These tender seafood medallions are wrapped in kataifi, which is shredded phyllo dough, baked, and then decadently drizzled with a sheep's milk butter and white wine beurre blanc, diced asparagus, scallions, capers, and tomatoes, with a final zigzag of a kalamata balsamic reduction.  These divine seafood nests offered the crunch and savor of the land, the fragile ocean balance of sweet and salty, with colorfully tart and tangy vegetable ornamentation.  I made such a rave about how much this dish wowed me that the chef was gracious enough to share a simplified version of the recipe with me, which I have attached at the end of this post...  although I highly recommend initially trying it at Thalassa before attempting it at home.

The Horiatiki, a traditional Greek peasant salad, was yet another stunning example of how fresh ingredients with minimal accompaniments can sometimes offer the most astonishing explosion of flavors.    This particular version showcased heirloom tomatoes, bell peppers, cucumbers, and a surprisingly silky wedge of Dodonis feta (a sheep's milk feta known to be creamier and smoother than the more common barrel feta).

For the main course, I savored one of the most tender filets of fish I have ever enjoyed, and was quite honestly impressed beyond comparison.  Chef Ralphael sprinkles the filets of Lavraki (known as Branzino across the sea) with an assortment of herbs, and then grills the fish whole.  The buttery and tender filet is accented only with a whisper of lemon juice, capers, and olive oil.

Having lived in Astoria with an ofttimes rather out-of-control sweet tooth, I can assure you that I have sampled many versions of traditional Greek desserts throughout the years.  It is without contest that I proclaim Thalassa serves the most exceptional version of my favorite Greek dessert, Galaktobouriko, a simple citrus custard layered with crisp phyllo dough and drizzled with honey.

If Italian cheesecake makes you feel guilty, than you simply must sink your fork into Thalassa's yogurt cake, a much lighter and creamier, yet beautifully sweet version of the Mediterranean classic, on a small pool of tart raspberry coulis, crowned with a candied fig preserve, and accompanied by a few sweet pear wedges.  A refreshingly light, sweet kiss for a perfect ending to an exceptional meal.

If you aren't afraid to pull out the stops, then why not indulge in a perfectly executed, moist, and rich molten chocolate cake dusted with confectioner's sugar and garnished with a mint sprig.

But if tradition is what best suits you, you would hard-pressed to find a more satisfyingly gooey, crunchy, and buttery walnut and almond baklava.  For a chef that would personally tell you that he is not a pastry chef, Ralphael most certainly has mastered a sweet ending that befits the finale to an absolutely superb meal.

Though I am saving Thalassa for the next time I really want to wow someone on a date, I could not more highly recommend a refreshing escape from the city into a serene and luminescent world of colors, smells, and flavors that genuinely transport you to a Mediterranean oasis.

Recipe: Scallops Wrapped in Kataifi
For the scallops: 
4 pcs extra large sea scallops
1/3rd lb. Kataifi Filo
salt & pepper to taste

Wrap scallops with kataifi filo and sprinkle with melted butter
Place on a baking sheet and bake at 450 F for 15 minutes

For the butter sauce: 
1 medium shallot, sliced
1 tsp. fresh thyme
8 oz. white wine
½ lb. butter chips that have been thoroughly iced

Cook shallot, thyme and wine until completely reduced (i.e. no liquid left)
Add the iced butter chips and whip continuously
Salt & pepper to taste

For the balsamic reduction:

2 cups balsamic vinegar

Simmer on medium heat until syrupy – approx. 45min.

Mise en place:
1 diced tomato
½ cup diced scallions and dill

Cut cooked wrapped scallop in half and place in the center of the plate
Cover with butter sauce
Drizzle with balsamic reduction
Sprinkle with cut tomato and herbs