Mediterranean Morsels at Morso

View of the Queensboro Bridge from a park in Sutton Place, just down the street from Morso

Morso, 420 E. 59th St., NYC; (212) 759-2706 

After nine years living in New York City, it wasn't until I was invited to dinner at Morso that I realized what an unofficial and somewhat unfortunate meridian Second Avenue serves, especially at the mouth of the Queensboro Bridge.  Other than the sky tram to Roosevelt Island or taking the lower level to Long Island City, I have never really ventured east of Second.  Arriving a few minutes early for dinner, I took advantage of the time to explore the street that to the north becomes York, and Avenue A farther south.  Neither York nor Alphabet City, this small stretch of street known as Sutton Place is one of the most affluent in Manhattan, having served as home to Kenneth Cole, Sigourney Weaver, Freddie Mercury, Michael Jackson, and even Marilyn Monroe and Arthur Miller.  The townhouses are beautiful--even more so, the views of the East River, the bridge, and Long Island City in Queens.  If planning a visit to Morso, I would absolutely recommend a stroll along Sutton Place to visit one of the small parks along the river.

Despite the rather exclusive surrounding neighborhood, Morso is extremely inviting.  Vibrant poster art commissioned specifically for the restaurant livens the border of the dining room, and an extremely friendly, accessible menu, features Italian and mediterranean dishes available either in large (tutto) or small (morso) portions, ideal for sharing a variety of plates.  It's the inspiration for the name, after all.

From the "Egg & Cheese" portion of the menu (a rotating daily egg dish is available at dinner), the gorgonzola fritters are a delicious harmony of temperatures, textures, and flavors, with crunchy crusted creamy gorgonzola on a bed of frisee with roasted pears, spiced walnuts, and a tangy apple cider vinaigrette.

The farro salad is a surprisingly hearty garden-inspired dish with tender farro grains, colorfully tart apricots, and earthy, meaty portobello and grilled eggplant.

Homemade pastas range from cannelloni florentine stuffed pasta rolls, to pappardelle blanketed with brisket-porcini ragout, as well as a classic take on spaghetti carbonara with savory bits of guanciale, onions, pecorino, and creamy egg yolk (pictured).

One of the most memorable bites of the evening was the capesante, sautéed scallops on a bed of black rice with piquant cubes of chorizo and roasted pepper, similar to what a south american risotto.  But the element that drew together the buttery shellfish with spicy sausage was a drizzle of a sweet and citrusy limoncello reduction.

The lamb chops, though flawlessly grilled and quite perfect, were only a secondary character to a side component that stole my favor from the entire evening--the chef's creative take on moussaka--a crispy crusted eggplant rollatini stuffed with minced merquez (lamb sausage) and feta, on a bed of white beans with a creamy mint sauce.  Rather than merely a side garnish, it was equally, if not more outstanding, than the chops.

A small, yett satisfying selection of desserts range from the Torta Napolitana (pictured), a decadently smooth neapolitan cheesecake studded with marsala-soaked dried fruit with a fresh strawberry puree, to an espresso hazelnut cake roll, as well as a selection of sorbet, gelato, and petit fours which change daily.

Sublimely Delicious Winter Dishes at Ornella Trattoria

The bolognese sauce takes over 2 hours to prepare, served on homemade fusilli

Ornella Trattoria Italiana (29-17 23rd Ave; 1/2 block from Ditmars N/Q station)

"Now-ah dis is-ah dah REAL fyoo-see-lee... not like-ah dat spiral stuff... dis is much bedd-uh.  Fuhgeddaboudit..." smiles Giuseppe, as he proudly places the masterpiece on the white linen before me.  His Italian accent is as thick and comforting as the bolognese sauce blanketing the long coils of fresh pasta. Half the joy of dining at Ornella, after all, is having Giuseppe serve you.

As I devour the savory meat sauce and thin, hollow al dente noodles, he points out one of the greatest joys of eating homemade pasta.  Since he never uses a machine, each noodle is slightly different in thickness, shape, and texture, making each bite uniquely enjoyable.  The fusilli bolognese is a dish from his hometown that his mother-in-law has made by hand probably thousands of times over the course of her life.

Each and every dish comes with a family story, and there are well over 100 different dishes available in the restaurant any given day of the week, though only a select few are listed on the menu.  This is the man who was famous for his contraband supply of casu marzu as well as his seasonal offering of the legendary sanguinaccio--a chocolate pudding made with fresh pig's blood, which Giuseppe also uses as a cannoli filling (he's already made a batch this winter).

But despite the Fear-Factor-ish culinary delicacies he loves to share with friends and regulars, Giuseppe's menu is undeniably the most diverse Italian menu anywhere around, and arguably the most authentic.  Will he make you chicken parmigiana?  Sure.  But only because he likes to please each customer; not because it's a favorite authentic dish.

Pizzoccheri alla Fontina

If you truly want to enjoy what makes this restaurant so incredibly special, simply ask Giuseppe about the dishes inspired by his home in Salerno, Italy.  From his father, who ran a flour mill, Giuseppe learned the nuances of making different flours.  One of the most exquisite dishes he serves is the pizzoccheri alla fontina, featuring long flat noodles made from buckwheat flour.  The hearty pasta ribbons are tossed with tender braised cabbage, golden potatoes, fontina cheese, and a touch of garlic and olive oil.  The dish is simultaneously light, hearty, decadent, and a playscape of textures and flavors atypical of Italian American standards.

Risotto al Nero di Seppia

Another delicious winter special that Giuseppe has recently introduced is this cuttlefish risotto.  The black color comes from a mere spoonful of cuttlefish ink, which is the original ink used for sepia prints (though now other inks are typically substituted for the sepia effect).  In spite of its uninviting color, the risotto is wonderfully al dente, and sings exquisitely of seafood with a kiss of parmesan.  Hidden within the fragrant rice are actual medallions of cuttlefish, which look and taste like a more tender version of steamed calamari.  Though the peas are primarily a contrasting garnish, along with the endive they add a crunch and crispness to the luxuriously velvety dish. This is edible proof that you cannot judge a book by its cover.

Seasonal Savorings: Awakening Your Autumn Appetite

(Sauvignon Blanc Jelly at Rèst-âü-Ránt)

(This article was originally published in edited form the Oct '11 issue of Boro Magazine)

As New Yorkers begin to pack away their sandals, shorts, and swimsuits in exchange for denim, wool, and a warmer wardrobe, so also do the city’s eateries hibernate their summer fare in exchange for autumn menus of more comforting cuisine that no longer threatens to compromise bikini curves.  Here is a rundown of some of the seasonal stars now showcased on the menus of four of the neighborhood’s favorite restaurants.

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Few menus in the neighborhood evolve as frequently as Ornella Trattoria, where chef-owner Giuseppe Viterale daily scours the local markets for inspiration to reinvent his favorite regional Italian dishes.  While the weekly specials remain the same (Monday $14.95 Steak Night, Tuesday 1½  lb lobster over seafood pasta for $21, Wednesday any chicken dish for $13, and Thursday any pasta special for $10), Ornella introduces three exceptional new brunch items for the fall.

Hangover Pasta will shatter any notions you had that noodles cannot satiate a brunch craving.  Homemade pappardelle is boiled in milk, adding a unique texture and sweetness to the broad pasta ribbons which are then tossed with savory bits of bacon, a drizzle of truffle oil, and topped with a fried egg—sort of like a carbonara gone crazy.

Classic Italian Lard Bread laced with tender slices of shredded peppered bacon arrives at Ornella via Williamsburg, where it is then transformed into a luxurious pedestal for eggs benedict, a delicious upgrade from the standard muffin.

The Roman Fried Cheese Sandwich could overtake any competitor grilled cheese in a cage fight.  Ornella’s spin on a classic spiedini alla romana, homemade foccacia is generously stuffed with fresh mozzarella, fried, and then blanketed with a creamy reduction of brandy, anchovies, shallots, and capers.

In college, Giuseppe Viterale perfected his personal espresso, and if you coax him, he just might do it tableside for you.  Granulated sugar receives the first few drops of the percolated brew, which he then vigorously whips by hand into an espresso marshmallow, which dissolves into a sweet cap of foam floating atop the Italian coffee.

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The menu at El Ay Si has been described as eclectic and global, but regardless of labels, it’s universally comforting and tasty—also generously portioned and reasonably priced.  Happy Hour extends Wednesday through Sunday from 4-7PM with $5 well drinks, $4 pints, $6 wines, and $8 specialty cocktails, and Bingo on Sundays. Mark your calendar for an old-school Prohibition & Flapper Halloween Party on Sunday, October 30^th.

An iron skillet of rotini spirals swimming in béchamel, studded with applewood smoked bacon, and crowned with golden-baked cheese, this comfort classic is addictively straightforward and soothing.

Both nostalgic and scrumptious, heaping piles of crunchy tater tots are a must-have addition to any meal for just five bucks.  And if you’re up for a splurge, they can arrive “disco style” with white gravy and cheddar, or even loaded with three-bean veggie chili and cheese.

When it comes to nachos, this gargantuan platter isn’t playing around; there’s a reason this monster appears under “Mains” rather than “Small Bites”.  Homemade tortilla chips remain miraculously crunchy, even when partnered with any of the eight topping options—or better yet, “the works” (pictured), with everything from skirt steak and grilled chicken to chili and avocado.

No, you didn’t misread the menu.  That dish is called Chicken Fried Chicken.  It’s a traditional name for country fried chicken, referring to the manner in which it is prepared.  Even steak can be “chicken fried.”  But the country chicken platter at El Ay Si would have a challenge finding a rival.  Juicy chicken coated in crispy batter arrives on a pillow of smashed potatoes, all with a peppered white gravy, and a side of buttery green beans.

You haven’t tasted a hush puppy until you’ve enjoyed one of these jalapeno sweet corn fritters.  Packing the perfect punch of spice, these golden breaded orbs are dipped in a ramekin of pure honey for the ultimate harmony of savory and sweet.

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Whether sharing Cavo's small plates like the veal meatballs stuffed with sheep’s milk cheese in the outdoor sunken garden, or settling down for an intimate meal in Astoria’s most glamorous dining room with cathedral ceilings and contemporary chandeliers soaring what seems like miles overhead, it doesn’t take long to see the artwork on the plate is just as spectacular as the surroundings.  Fall specials include a free bottle of wine with the purchase of two entrees on Mondays, 1/2 price on all entrees on Tuesdays, 50% off the manager’s wine list on Wednesdays, Thursdays Ladies Night Speciqaals, and $20 sangria pitchers each Sunday.

Black angus short ribs are slowly braised for four hours to fall-apart-at-the-touch tenderness, showcased on a dollop of creamy polenta, and then draped with an exquisite red wine reduction with fall vegetables, and a kiss of microgreens.  This mastepiece pairs beautifully with a bottle of Amethystos, a full-bodied charismatic “wine of drama” from the vineyards of Greece.

Striped pasta pockets are stuffed with four Greek cheeses, then served in a creamy feta sauce with a drizzle of truffle oil.  One of the area’s most unique ravioli dishes, it is an absolute must for any pasta-lover.

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It may seem slightly hidden off-the-beaten path, but Rèst-âü-Ránt is just a block away from the 36^th Ave N/Q line, and worth every step.  Featuring an extensive selection of wine, beer, and cocktails, this cozy corner kitchen is the ideal place to share a snack with friends.  Local comedians take the spotlight on Tuesdays at 10PM, music showcases at 9PM on Thursdays, and plans are underway for a Halloween costume party.  The diverse menu ranges from dumplings to fondue, but the fall specials are inspired by the grape harvest season.

A flatbread of homemade focaccia is spread with fresh goat cheese, halved red grapes, and sprigs of rosemary, toasted in the oven.

A trio of Organic North Shore Long Island Sliders are basted in a shallot-merlot reduction, topped with velvety melted gorgonzola, tomato, and a frisee salad, all sandwiched on Turkish somun bread from local Pain D’Avignon Bakery.

Proof that dessert can be light and refreshing, this gorgeously inventive jelly is made from sauvignon blanc and jeweled with whole white grapes, served with a mint sprig and a dollop of fresh cream—reason enough alone to make a visit.

Two meals in one day at Bugatti, a new Italian café

(Bugatti's exquisitely light ricotta cheesecake with raspberry coulis & vanilla white mocha sauce)

Bugatti Café (31-05 34th St., Astoria)

(718) 626-1115

Dinner daily, brunch on weekends

Blink, and you just might stroll right on past Bugatti.  Sharing a city block with panini powerhouse Il Bambino, and just around the corner from the blue ribbon beef patties of Bare Burger, this unassuming new kid on the block doesn't sport a yellow awning or exterior like the two aforementioned neighborhood favorites, but if you will peek just a little around the corner from 31st ave on 34th street,  you will find the slight detour extremely worth the extra couple of strides.

Inside, an eclectic mix of rock, pop, and folk dances through the air, and we spend much of brunch "shazamming" tunes by Don Henley, the Indigo Girls, or Owl City.  The main wall is covered with a painting like a vintage poster for Bugatti, the restaurant's namesake... the European company responsible for producing some of the most exclusive sports cars in the world.  Considering the fact that owner Mike Adovic also owns a car dealership on Northern Boulevard, the historical automotive nod should come as little surprise.  And just as Bugatti cars are works of art as much as they are mechanical creations, it could easily be said that the culinary concoctions at Bugatti Café are similarly crafted with meticulous creativity.  As a matter of fact, we fell so much in love with the delicious dishes at brunch yesterday, that we called five other friends to return with us for dinner that very same day.

Wonderfully fresh, powdery loaves of sourdough are accompanied by a rather unique, small dish of glistening sauteed zucchini which has been tossed in olive oil and garlic, the perfect simple crowning flavor for the delicious bread.

The Bugatti salad is an entree sized portion, with crisp, bitter leaflets of arugula and spears of endive, tart and tangy roasted red peppers, earthy mushrooms, and buttery and nutty shaved parmigiano.

Chef Camillo takes simple, unadulterated ingredients and harmonizes them to delicious effect.  A playfully crunchy endive salad rests atop a cobblestone plate of thick red beets, all drizzled with a surprisingly creamy red beet dressing, and a thin disc of goat cheese, its smooth richness wonderfully balancing the tang and acidity.

The roasted veal and spinach ravioli are made fresh in-house, and are quite simply perfection at brunchtime. The glowing sage tomato sauce is dotted with little bits of dried porcini, in which the generously sized pasta pillows are lightly tossed--just enough to coat, but not too much to altogether hide the veal and spinach filling.

An excellent, traditional pancake plate is topped with seasonal fresh blueberries and mandarin orange wedges.  And brunch at Bugatti is one of the best deals around.  $14.95 will get you an entree, mimosa, and a dessert.

Have you ever seen a more beautiful sunny side up egg than the one here accompanying a ribbon of sliced sirloin and hand cut fries the size of chubby fingers?  Simple, but expertly executed, it would be a hard breakfast dish to beat.

Though the brunch menu showcases breakfast plates and panini absent on the dinner menu, along with the ravioli, a few other pasta dishes appear on both menus.  Our unanimous favorite was the tricolor fusilli tossed in a light cream sauce with caramelized onions and salty tiny julienned slivers of speck.  We enjoyed it so much, in fact, it was ordered again when we came for dinner.

The tiramisu is the most delicious I have ever enjoyed, and I have tried several variations.  At Bugatti, a stemless martini glass is layered with sweet Italian custard that overflows and drips from the rim, espresso-soaked ladyfingers, and a slight kiss of amaretto, sprinkled with a confetti of chocolate shavings and a tiny button of an almond biscuit cookie dusted with confectioners sugar.  Spoons clinked against one another in a gluttonous fencing match as we battled for the last few dollops.

The dessert that accompanies the $14.95 brunch prix fixe is a duet of paper thin crespelles wrapped around a ribbon of Nutella and crushed walnuts, all drizzled with buttery ribbons of caramel and fresh blackberries.

The check arrived with a complimentary plate of seasonal fresh fruit also dusted with confectioners sugar, a sweet and healthy ending to a superb brunch that would send us skipping back for more in just a few hours.

Our server, the same from lunch, greeted us by name when we entered for dinner.  While he immediately apologized for a partial liquor license, several delicious wines were actually available by the glass, and all for just $5.  With a table of eight diners, and an appetizer menu featuring six dishes and two soups, we naturally ordered one of each.  One of my personal favorites was the dollop of imported creamy burrata on a pedestal of roasted winter vegetable caponata and toasted pine nuts.

Another standout is the mixed grilled seafood, a simple arugula salad surrounded by golden-seared diver sea scallops, calamari, and sweet prawns.  The seafood was outrageously tender, with crispy grilled bits that brought out the intense sweetness and brine.

Grilled young Portuguese octopus gently sliced away like butter under a warm knife, its sweetness counteracted by a red wine vinegar emulsion.  Sitting on a yellow potato crust, it is best enjoyed by tearing away bits of the golden crust to wrap around the seafood.

Heightening a classic dish of fresh buffalo mozzarella and ruby tomato wedges, this version is zigzagged with a deliciously intense basil olive oil, almost more of a pesto drizzle.

The bowl of lightly fred zucchini, shrimp, and artichokes was filled to a heaping abundance.  Served with a side cup of creamy tomato aurora sauce, this was one of the most delicious, delicately fried dishes I have enjoyed, putting to shame most tempura plates and certainly any other fried veggie starters.

The cutting board was generously loaded with cured meats and a spectrum of cheeses both soft and firm, sharp and mild.  Served with grapes and sliced apples, the real special touch on this platter is the cup of chestnut honey, a sweet, earthy dipping pool for everything on this spread of antipasti.

The cream of asparagus soup was smooth as velvet, and literally tasted like gently seasoned pureed asparagus and cream.  Garnished with three generously-sized grilled shrimp, I loved how these little shellfish left an expanding ring of butter on the surface of the soup.  After cutting the shrimp into smaller bits, this made a light-as-air marriage of land and sea and the perfect winter soup.

Pork tenderloin is stuffed with asparagus, red bell peppers, and teleggio cheese, before being draped with a madeira wine reduction.

The fusilli at dinner was described around the table as a "perfect pasta" dish, and we loved it every bit as much as we had earlier in the day.  The taglierini with grilled shrimp and pesto, however, did not quite shine as brightly.  The pasta was fresh, the shrimp grilled to perfection.  The pesto, itself, however, was excessively salty... and trust me, it takes a lot of salt for us to find something too salty.  So much so, in fact, that I want to return and try it again to see if it was just an oversight this one night, because the basil was delicious, and with less salt, could have been glorious.  This was one of the only dishes on the table that was not practically licked clean.

The center cut filet of salmon was beautifully pan seared, a light pink on the outside, falling apart in gorgeous grapefruit colored tender slivers at the prodding of a fork.  The white wine lemon caper sauce was savory and tart, but if you aren't a fan of rather generously sauced seafood (and meat, for that matter) I might recommend the sauce on the side, because the fish and steaks at Bugatti are prepared so beautifully they almost need no additional flavors.

The herb-marinated sirloin was excellently seasoned and grilled, and then sliced into perfectly medium rare medallions arranged in a crescent moon and again, blanketed in red wine reduction (though here, I could have happily sipped the sauce directly from the plate).  Accompanied by a lightly buttery and fluffy potato tart, it was a standout entree of the evening.  Sirloin as tender and flavorsome as filet mignon is rarely presented with such finesse.

The table, of course, devoured tiramisu, nutella crespelles, and the ricotta cheesecake (pictured at the heading--note, one diner requested it without chocolate, apparently used as one of the regular garnishes), but after such a delightfully filling meal where eight friends tasted almost everything on the table, I fell in love with my dish of hazelnut gelato and raspberry sorbet (you can choose two scoops from an array of flavors, including blood orange, mango, vanilla, and chocolate).  As we sipped our coffee, Sandy (Mike's wife, and co-owner) stopped by to see how we had enjoyed our meal, and had us immediately feeling as invited guests in her home.

Only open since autumn, I have a feeling Bugatti is going to be around for quite a long time.  With enormous front window panels that swing open in the summer, and al fresco seating at high tables along the sidewalk, pretty soon it will be nearly impossible to walk by without taking notice.