Japanese Comfort Food at Haru Hana

(suribachi & surikogi--Japanese mortar & pestle--for crushing sesame seeds into tonkatsu sauce)

Haru Hana (28 W. 32nd St., NYC)

The summer I spent in Japan witnessed three months of the healthiest eating I have ever enjoyed.  Though 100% culture-shocked coming from the Midwest--and sad to have to momentarily retire the word casserole--I was committed to trying new flavors and textures.  True, among the bizarre (and absurd, in retrospect) items I had packed from home was a box of Chef Boyardee pizza mix (in case I needed an emergency pizza fix).  Still a bit wonky with my amateur finger muscles, my very first evening there I accidentally tossed a brown-gravy drenched potato across the room with my chopsticks, which I then staked into my steak before scrambling to clean up the mess, ergo triggering a roomful of horrified gasps (no one had informed me planting your chopsticks upright into your food wished bad fortune to the family!)  And so what if my knees had become strangely calloused after a week of showering (no one explained to me that the shower head actually detached from its hoist three feet off the ground, with a retractable cord--those were some painful and awkward showers!)  And true, the über-evangelical younger me took a suitcase of Gideon Bibles to share the gospel with a country less than 1% Christian (that's correct, I planned on bringing Jesus and Chef Boyardee to a pagan and pizza-less nation).  I won't even discuss my first experience with their toilets on this food blog!  The stories are enough for a book--or a movie starring Jonah Hill (imagine him as a youth ambassador for the U.S. Senate living in a peaceful mountain village full of Buddhist and Shinto shrines). 

I absolutely credit that life-altering summer for making me a much more adventurous eater (and thinker).  And while the majority of what I consumed contributed to some significant weight loss that summer, a few dishes I also enjoyed fall into the comfort category.  I luckily stumbled upon two of them a few days ago.

Leaving my most recent dentist appointment across the street from the Empire State Building (who gets to gargle and spit while looking at the Empire State Building?!), I was naturally starving.  I never eat before someone works on my mouth, and after having a dentist fiddle with my teeth for a few hours, my stomach always starts to growl.  Taking a walk along 32nd Street (affectionately referred to as K-Town for its endless Korean eateries and karaoke bars--24 hour Korean BBQ is a godsend after a late night at a midtown bar), a Japanese sign caught my attention.  Outside, plastic figurines of some of the dishes made me chuckle, but I instantly noticed they offered okonomiyaki--a dish I had loved in Hiroshima, but rarely find in America.

Okonomiyaki at Haru Hana is offered either with mixed seafood or caviar & cheese.   I went the seafood route, and was extremely pleased.  My photos were admittedly rushed, but the base of this dish is like a Japanese pancake/omelette, with egg, flour, shredded cabbage, and scallion, all studded with very tender pieces of crabmeat, octopus, calamari, and shrimp.  It is quite similar to a cross between egg foo young and a scallion pancake you might order at a Chinese restaurant, only stuffed with seafood.  This is then glazed with a thick, sweet sauce, often compared in flavor to Worcestershire sauce, a drizzle of mayonnaise, and then bonito flakes (dried, smoked skipjack tuna) that literally "dance" in the steam coming off of the plate.  It's like an umami breakfast, lunch, and seafood feast all rolled into one.  You cut it like a pizza, and should enjoy it while it's hot.  The version at Haru Hana was delicious, although more of an Osaka-style rather than the Hiroshima version (both styles are popular in different regions) I enjoyed over fifteen years ago (which was prepared table side, had noodles baked in, and stood significantly taller).  Yes, it's that good that I recall the taste and textures a decade and a half later.

Another Japanese comfort food I love it tonkatsu, a deep-fried pork cutlet.  Panko breadcrumbs yield a crunch unlike any other.  I also love this dish as katsudon, when served with an egg and sauce on a bed of rice.  But when I saw Haru Hana offered a mozzarella katsu, well, there was really no debate.  Paper thin pork loin is stuffed with mozzarella, dredged in panko bread crumbs, and served with a salad, rice, vegetable curry, and a bowl of miso soup for just $10.50 at lunch.  The pork was wonderfully tender.  I also loved that they brought the mortar and pestle to the table so I could grind my own sesame powder to add to the tonkatsu sauce (almost like a thick, smoked apple, sweet BBQ sauce) for dipping the strips of the cutlet.

Service was extremely friendly and very attentive.  The atmosphere was casual, yet beautiful with dramatic lighting on cherry blossoms, and columns that looked like tree trunks.  The rather extensive menu (and sake selection) certainly offers far more than what I sampled, including a variety of sushi, ramen and noodle dishes, as well as hot pots and a selection of Korean dishes.  But if what I enjoyed is any indication, this would be a wonderful place to take a friend or a casual date.  The prices are reasonable, the food tasty.  I already cannot wait to return.  Follow them on Twitter for crazy specials, like 50% off special sushi rolls.

Officially open and oishi: Junko Sushi

Junko Sushi (33-02 Broadway, Astoria, NY 11106)

(718) 777-1588 Free Delivery

Just as promised on their Facebook Page, Junko Sushi officially opened its doors to the public yesterday, offering a delicious new sushi alternative for a neighborhood that is anything but saturated with quality offerings.

Pronounced "Joon'-Koh", the word is a traditional female Japanese name meaning "pure child."  The restaurant takes over the space formerly occupied by the ill-fated Astoria outpost of Moonstruck Diner.  The ambiance is decidedly simplistic, ergo very Japanese.  Service was warm and attentive.

While the menu boasts several Japanese (and Thai, actually) influenced entrees, the focus is definitely on the sushi.  Lunch specials ranging from $5.95 to $11.95 feature everything from Thai Mango shrimp to pan-seared tuna soba, yaki udon, and create-your-own-roll combos.

Enticing appetizers run the gamut from Kumomoto oysters (5 for $10) to crispy duck ($9.95) and grilled lemongrass prawns ($9.50) to the standard shumai ($4.50) and gyoza ($4.50).  Anxious to try some of the Thai offerings, we started with the lobster ravioli.  The flavors were subtle enough to enjoy the lobster filling with a sweet kick of thai chili sauce (4 large pieces for $8.95).

The pan-fried Thai crab cake with orange curry and passion fruit sauce deliciously resembled more of a tropical seafood pancake masala, with sweet, tart, and spicy fusing in soft patty of crab meat and seasonings ($8.95).

The Junko's Special Rolls were so intriguing we skipped over the standard rolls to sample some of the creative combinations.  First was the Dancing Shrimp Roll ($12.95) with shrimp tempura and lobster wrapped in slivers of mango and avocado, drizzled with orange curry reduced balsamic, passion fruit, and eel sauce.  It was deliciously addictive, and a roll I would certainly order again.

My lunch date ordered the Lover's Roll, also with steamed fresh lobster, this time wrapped with sundried tomato, cucumber, asparagus and topped with caviar ($14.95).

To simply enjoy fresh fish without much masking, we also sampled the Hako Sushi--Osaka-style "pressed" spicy tuna, topped with Tuna, Salmon, and White tuna.  It was subtle, simple, and exceptional for a neighborhood sushi spot ($11.95).

Most classic rolls range from $3.50 (avocado or oshinko) to $7 (king crab avocado) with the average clearly falling around $5 (salmon jalapeno).  Adventurous eaters can experiment with raspberry sauces and curry rolls, while more conservative diners can stick to yellowtail or pumpkin tempura.

Kitchen entrees run from $10.95 for tofu & vegetable terriyaki to conch with XO sauce ($18.95) and steamed lobster ($22.95).

Sweet endings include mochi and tempura ice cream.

They've barely been open 24 hours, but please comment below with your initial impressions...

JJ's Asian Fusion: more than just your typical maki & sake

The House Special Tempura Roll, a maki of smoked salmon, yellowtail, and cream cheese, lightly battered and deep-fried.

JJ's Asian Fusion (37-05 31st Ave., Astoria)

Closed Mondays

"Ohhhhh, you are going to love the yellowtail sashimi special today," Kimmy confidently and sweetly proclaims the very second I step past the neon blue glowing waterfall in the entryway.  "It has a yuzu foam, a puree of white bean and garlic, and apple kimchi."  As she guides me through the bamboo partitioned tables toward a seat near the sushi counter, she continues, "Do you want to look at the menu first, or should I turn the special appetizer in for you already while you look at entrees?"

It's only my third visit to JJ's Asian Fusion, and it seems the same staff has been here every single time.  And they seem to not only remember each repeat customer, but also their dining preferences.  On my second visit, I tried to order the shumai, to which Kimmy replied, "you had those last time... you should really try the dim sum.  Similar ingredients and flavors, but a little bit different dish."  So far all of her recommendations have been perfect, but I am starting to realize that there probably isn't anything here I wouldn't enjoy.

The rich and tender slices of yellowtail practically fall apart under my chopsticks.  A fish with a high oil content, it is nearly futile to dip it in soy sauce, which stubbornly beads up and rolls off.  So it's brilliant that this appetizer is topped with sesame seeds and crunchy fish flakes that add texture, and served with a citrusy yuzu foam to cut the richness, as well as a pool of garlicky white bean cream sauce that accentuates the bold flavors of the fish.

The apple kimchi is a unique take on a Korean classic, and the peppery glaze on juicy chunks of sour green apple offers a tart heat that wonderfully compliments the other players in the dish.  This is anything but your ordinary sushi joint, offering yet another affirmation that the kitchens in Astoria are serving up some delectably innovative cuisine that rivals even the most popular competitors in Manhattan.

Aptly named JJ's Asian Fusion, this cozy restaurant unassumingly tucked on 31st Avenue features an oftentimes French culinary approach to a marriage of a multiplicity of Pan-Asian cuisines.  The restaurant's namesake, J.J. Lin, brings both her Shanghainese heritage and training at the French Culinary Institute to create an artistic array of dishes that dexterously satisfy both sushi purists and fusion enthusiasts.  For several years the location was a take-out noodle shop called JJ's Grand Tofu, but nearly a decade ago was transformed into the current restaurant by J.J. and her husband, Richard Lin.

One of the most popular small plates are the edamame pot stickers.  For $5.50, four steamed dumplings are stuffed with pureed edamame beans, blanketed in a wasabi cream sauce, and then drizzled with basil-infused olive oil.  Al dente pasta gives way to a surprisingly substantial soy bean filling, a refreshing departure from more traditional dumplings, and just enough heat from the wasabi to tantalize the palate but not kill your taste buds for further courses.

With the shumai ($4.95) six tender meatballs of delicately seasoned minced chicken and crabmeat are wrapped in thin, savory noodles, steamed on a broad bamboo leaf that infuses a hint of earthiness, and served with a small bowl of ponzu sauce for dipping.

The dim sum ($4.95) features the same chicken and crab meatball, but in this version beautifully wrapped in a thick dumpling skin, each steamy piece crowned with a plump, sweet shrimp.  While I absolutely loved the addition of the shrimp with the dim sum, the playful texture of the shumai was deliciously irresistible.

My personal favorite, however, just might be the king crab dumplings.  Four substantial, steamed pasta crescents stuffed to bursting with sweet king crab meat ($6.95).

While JJ's more creative dumplings are reason enough to return again, and could quite easily build a meal, the more traditional gyoza are available with a variety of fillings.  In the version we tried, salty and peppery minced pork is packaged in a tender dumpling skin, steamed to al dente, and then lightly pan-seared.  6 pieces are $4.50, and hold their own against any gyoza I have tried.

One of the most surprisingly interesting, yet satisfying starters (also served as an accompaniment with many of the entrees) are the potato spring rolls for $2.95.  Smooth, herbed mashed potatoes are deep-fried in wonton wrappers, sliced diagonally, and served with a slightly peppery, orange glaze for dipping.  Sort of a citrusy, Asian croquette, they are remarkably simple and delicious.

A phenomenal dish for sharing that is not even listed on the menu is the rock lobster tempura, which you  might be able to convince the kitchen to prepare with enough coaxing.  Juicy lumps of sweet lobster meat are lightly tempura battered and fried, then tossed in a yuzu mango glaze and dotted with red and black tobiko (flying fish caviar) and finally crowned with magenta and jade micro greens.  Not only do you receive a lobster tail full of decadently crispy, sweet, and tangy fried lobster morsels, but a champagne flute loaded with more of the golden seafood, as well.  It's a real "wow" dish, and something off-menu you can order that will undoubtedly impress your date or dining companions.

Another wonderful off-menu item that might soon become a recurring special is an herbed, pan-seared blackened tuna ball.  The crispy golden sphere surrounds wonderfully tender, pink ahi tuna, and sits in a pool of caper berry cream sauce and basil-infused oil.  It's a delicious marriage of the ocean and garden, and yet another unique starter course that would be difficult to top in terms of creativity and bold flavors.

From the sushi bar comes an entirely different selection of small plates that exemplify a culinary mastery of Japanese simplicity.  Live scallops are sliced delicately thin and served in the shell, accompanied by an artfully carved cucumber rose filled with the dark outer skirt of the scallop, a more firm, briny, yet delicious contrast to the sweet, moist scallop medallions.  A salty reduction of the scallop juices accompanies, although almost completely unnecessary.  Seafood this fresh needs no masking.

For those unable to decide on the sushi bar's broad selection of sashimi, I highly recommend one of the chef's combinations.  The chirashi assortment features a generous selection of the freshest slices of seafood available, traditionally served on a bed of sushi rice.  For $16.95 it makes a perfect platter for sharing, or a quite filling meal for one.  The chef selects his own preferences, for a colorful array of the freshest catches available that day.  My friend and I nearly devoured the entire array without dipping a single piece in soy sauce.  The salmon, tuna, and mackerel were beyond exceptional.

The wok-seared blackened tuna entree features a crown of flawlessly seared, pepper-crusted ahi tuna shingled around a heaping mound of arugula tossed in balsamic vinaigrette, all drizzled with piquant wasabi aioli.

Enormous bowls of nabe yaki udon arrive at tables with enough soup to feed a family of four.  Bright yellow mounds of singapore angel hair noodles tossed in mild curry are loaded with shrimp, chicken, and colorful Chinese vegetables.  We fell in love with the chicken lo mein, a refreshingly light take on the popular sauteed Chinese dish, packed with much less oil than the typical take-out version, and more crisp vegetables and tender white chicken meat.

Along with several basic sushi rolls come a kaleidoscope array of Chef's Special Rolls.  Tropical Roll #2 features shrimp tempura with diced mango and slivers of avocado, wrapped in rice and thin soy paper, all drizzled with mango and strawberry sauces.  The harmony of the tempura batter and sweet glazes combine in your mouth like a sinfully decadent sushi doughnut that you just can't put down.

On the lighter end of maki spectrum comes the sashimi cucumber roll, replacing both seaweed and rice with thin strips of crisp cucumber spiraled around tuna, salmon, crab, and avocado, brushed with a sweet and spicy glaze and topped with caviar.

The Astoria roll is filled with crabmeat and wasabi tempura crunch flakes.  The roll is then topped with thin slices of salmon and a red pepper cream sauce, all of which is seared to order with a handheld brulee torch just moments before serving.

With the same filling as the Astoria roll, the scallop california roll is instead topped with thin medallions of fresh scallop and a citrus cream sauce, flame-seared and garnished with red and green tobiko.

The crunchy and peppery blackened tuna roll is filled with crisp asparagus spears, pepper-seared tuna, then topped with even more tuna and wasabi cream sauce.

If you ask nicely, they will even serve up one of the chef's special rolls not listed on the menu, the House Special Tempura Roll.  Filled with yellowtail, smoked salmon, and cream cheese, the entire roll is dipped in tempura batter, and lightly fried.  Imagine a Japanese take on a bagel with lox, the cream cheese warm and melted into a rich sauce that beautifully accentuates the smoky, salty, fish.  It may take a moment to get used to the warm maki, but once you do, this is certain to become a favorite.

At lunch time, you can choose any two ($6.95) or three ($9.95) of the basic rolls from the sushi bar, with your choice of miso soup or house salad.  Lunch noodle specials (including the lo mein and singapore noodles) also come with soup for just $4.95.   Several other entrees are available at special lunch prices, as well as a variety of bento boxes and salads.  JJ's also features a rather impressive sake list, which I have unfortunately yet to sample.

Desserts include banana spring rolls, yucca coconut cake, and fried ice cream, and I saved room to sample a sweet finale during only one of my visits.  The baseball-sized dollop of ice cream is available in green tea or vanilla, coated with a sweetened, crispy tempura batter, drizzled with chocolate sauce.  From appetizer to ending, JJ's hits the mark on every facet of dining.  A cozy setting, impeccable hospitality and service, and a killer kitchen that has yet to disappoint, JJ's is most definitely a reason to dine in Astoria.

Gari: Simply Delicious Authentic Sushi

Gari (370 Columbus Ave.)

My initial confrontation with sushi was actually in Japan almost fifteen years ago.  Although I now know there were several establishments in my Indiana home town that offered the seemingly exotic cuisine back then, I guess rice, seaweed, and raw fish weren't really in the Hawks Family culinary vocabulary, so I never knew...

I describe my first encounter with sushi in Japan as a confrontation, because that's exactly it was.  And a significantly disastrous one at that...

When I was chosen for the honor of representing the United States as a youth ambassador to Japan through the U.S. Senate, not only had I never tasted Japanese food (well, other than flying chunks of flaming chicken soaring over the hibachi at Benihana), but I knew absolutely nothing about Japanese culture.  So, when the Senate sent me to an intensive 4-day orientation in San Francisco prior to my flight to Tokyo, needless to say I was a bit overwhelmed.  Though I was fascinated by the art of flower arranging and origami, those facets of the culture (along with etiquette) took the back burner to attempting to learn the language.  As a result, when I finally landed halfway around the world, I could actually speak a fair amount of basic Japanese, but my extent of knowledge sadly ended there.

I spent the first few days in Japan in Tokyo, actually meeting with (then) Prime Minister Murayama, and observing sessions of the Diet (Japan's legislature), primarily in the Monbusho (Ministry of Education).  Because I was being whirled in and out of meetings and conferences, I only really ate sandwiches and conference food... but not what I considered an authentic taste of Japanese at its best.

After Tokyo, I was flown to a small mountain village between the cities of Osaka and Kobe, which I would call home for the next three months.  Directly from the airport, my host family took me to their favorite Italian restaurant.  Though I hadn't paid much attention to the difference between nigiri and maki, by now I had at least psyched myself up to finally try sushi.  After devouring a surprisingly delicious rendition of spaghetti carbonara (at least I was eating raw egg), we headed to their mountain home.  The dinner that night would remain with me forever.

Along with pot roast and potatoes (God bless them for trying so hospitably to make me feel at home), we enjoyed a large family-style helping of chirashi (pieces of fresh fish on a large bowl of rice) garnished with dandelions.  What made the meal so perplexing, however, was that we used chopsticks for both the beef and the tuna.

By the time I had figured out each family member's occupation, age, and favorite color (I dined that evening with the two sons and the mother), very few conversation topics remained that all parties could understand.  So while the four of us made our initial assessments of one another and contemplated how on earth these next few months would unfold, I lobbed my potato around my plate like a hockey puck with my chopsticks.  When I finally attempted to pinch it to bring it shakily to my mouth, I had apparently underestimated the strength of my chopstick muscles, for the little gravy-soaked spud went sputnik, launched from my hands, and went soaring into orbit... a course that landed it smack dab in the middle of their cream-colored leather couch nearly three feet away.

"Oh crap!" I screamed, as I jabbed my chopsticks into my rice bowl and ran to clean up the mess I had goobered.  When I looked back to the table, Michiko, the mother, was running from the table sobbing, and the two boys just stared at me like I had murdered their puppy.

"Chopsticks upright in your food means death to the family," the eldest son, Toshiro, explained (he had been a foreign exchange student in Australia the year before, and spoke impeccable English, with a thick Aussie accent).  Kenji, the younger brother, broke into uncontrollable guffaws.

I fortunately did recover from my terrible first impression (along with several others I will save for a later post...)  Along with becoming quite skilled with a set of chopsticks, in those three months I learned a great deal about Japanese cuisine, and enjoyed fresh, exquisite sushi, the likes of which I have rarely enjoyed here in America, even in New York City.

Though it may be hard to believe, the Japanese didn't name their most popular rolls after American cities... No, a traditional Japanese menu doesn't feature Boston, Alaska, Philadelphia, or even California rolls.  Don't get me wrong... rare is the day I will turn away a roll with mayonnaise and shrimp or salmon and cream cheese.  But when I crave a rendition that truly reminds me of my experience in Japan, mango mozzarella chicken maki doesn't exactly hit the spot.

That's why I was particularly overjoyed a few weeks ago when I first discovered Gari, a surprisingly authentic sushi bar and Japanese restaurant on the Upper West Side.  Gari is the third restaurant opened by Masatoshi "Gari" Sugio in his efforts to create a more purist dining experience, focusing on the finest, freshest ingredients, prepared with just enough flavor that drowning the sushi in soy sauce would be rendered altogether unnecessary.  The result is my pick for some of the best, most authentic sushi available anywhere.  It's not a place for a "fusion" enthusiast, but if you want top-quality seafood, you can't beat Gari.

While there's nothing wrong with a gourmet salmon-blueberry maki with gold leafing on top, there's something to be said for a place that needs no gimmicks or crazy garnishes.  The fresh fish alone is simply fit for a king.  At Gari, the sushi chefs are genuine, culinary artists who carefully construct the finest ingredients with meticulous detail.  They even grind their own wasabi paste (something that is far more rare than the average sushi consumer realizes).  The following is a sample of some of the exceptional tastings we enjoyed that evening.

Though we opted out of the sake route, you can't go wrong with a cold Sapporo to start the meal.

The tuna avocado appetizer with a light wasabi-soy glaze ($12)

Torchon (foie gras poached in a towel) of monkfish liver with pickled ramp daikon puree ($11)

For the indecisive diner who simply wants to try a basic, generous assortment of seafood on a bed of seasoned rice, you can't go wrong with the Chirashi ($37)

An absolutely perfect kumamoto oyster (it takes 3 years to develop the deep shell that houses this buttery, delectably garnished morsel).

Chopped fatty tuna with pickled radish ($14), and fresh salmon with sauteed tomato & sweet onion ($5)

An impressively light and sweet piece of creamy, fresh uni (sea urchin) for $7.50

Tuna with creamy tofu puree ($5)

Tuna tartar with toasted pine nuts, capers, and nori crisps (seaweed tempura)

Fresh diver scallop

For a sweet ending, you simply have to try the mille crepe... dozens of paper thin pastry pancakes layered with a delicate custard.  Absolutely out-of-this-world deliciousness.