Bakery giant arrives in Astoria

Leli's Bakery & Pastry Shop (35-14 30th Ave, Astoria)

As I have been scurrying around Western Queens gathering images and information for my upcoming December story in Boro Magazine, my path has taken me past several neighborhood holiday favorites... in particular, the bakeries.  While I was sad to notice the absence of Terrizzi, whose hand-painted marzipan I featured in last year's story, I couldn't help but notice a huddle of people crowded around the window this past Saturday, eagerly peering inside the newly renovated space.

When one door closes, another opens--this time, to make way for what has the potential to become a popular bakery not only in Astoria, but perhaps several other locations around the city.  Leli's Bakery and Pastry shop is the first retail outpost for the team whose Bronx-based wholesale bakery supplies high-end pastries and sweets to such mega-stores as Dean & Deluca, Starbucks, Crumbs, and luxury hotels and restaurants like the Waldorf-Astoria.

Cupcakes range from carrot and caramel-filled apple, to mocha, and even a raspberry linzer cupcake.

Baked on premises, the bakery boasts gorgeous assorted fruit tarts, artisan breads, gourmet cupcakes and cookies, and soon, specialty sandwiches for meal service at the cozy, rustic dining area overlooking the delectable pastry showcases.  In just a few visits, I have sampled delicious, fresh-from-the-oven cranberry walnut bread, an enormous rugala stuffed with chocolate and plump raisins wrapped in a honey-soaked pastry topped with crushed walnuts, a chocolate cupcake stuffed with mocha cream, and white chocolate and milk chocolate rainbow cookies with a chocolate shell so thick and delicious, it reminded me more of a pastry-and-jam-filled candy bar.

Only open a few days, lines are already building as the neighborhood greets this specialty newcomer with outstretched arms.  Open for business just in time for the holidays, Leli's promises to become a neighborhood favorite in almost no time at all.

First Look: 2 New Burgers on the Block...

In a neighborhood where burgers come in virtually every shape and size, two new contenders throw their versions into the mix this week, offering even more options in the ever-expanding gamut of variations that include ostrich or bison (Bareburger), west-coast-style fast food (Petey's), $2 happy hour sliders to $18 monsters for two (Five Napkin Burger).

Just Burgers officially opened its doors this week at the corner of 33rd & Ditmars.  Community message boards are buzzing about the opening lines extending outside the door, but at lunchtime yesterday we were able to snag one of the few tables in the small dining room at this fast-food style burger joint.

The menu features a BYOB section (Build Your Own Burger) starting at $4.15, a selection of $7.25 specialty burgers, as well as hot dogs, fries (sea salt, cajun, or sweet potato), onion rings, and shakes.  Pictured above is the "regular" cheeseburger, simply meaning that it comes with two patties--extremely thin, and unavailable at any temperature lower than medium well.  The "mini" burger is not a slider, but rather a single patty sandwich--which is particularly unclear on the menu board...

The free topping options are extensive, as well, with cheese available for $0.90 and premium toppings for $1.  Pictured at the top of this post is the "Caramel Burger" with applewood smoked bacon, maple caramelized onions, blue cheese, lettuce, tomato, and horseradish aioli.

We also sampled the regular dog with basil pesto aioli... they were not yet serving the 1/4-lb angus beef dog.

The fries and onion rings were surprisingly served in styrofoam containers, quite the opposite extreme of the more eco-friendly competitors (Bareburger even features paperless ordering with touch screen handheld server pads).  While I absolutely hope Just Burgers finds success, it would be nice to see recyclable baskets for those who dine in (every burger is wrapped in foil) and greener packaging options for carryout and (soon-to-come) delivery.

I will refrain from evaluation until Just Burgers has been open more than just a few days and finally settled into its rhythm.  In the meanwhile, I'd love to hear your feedback/experiences in the comments at the end of this post!  How do you think Just Burgers stacks up?

A burger that is already 100% crave-worthy and a serious contender for top burger is the new Queens Classic that arrived on the menu this week at Queens Comfort.  Last weekend, the comfort food hot spot transformed into a burger and shake joint, showcasing several variations on the American classic.  Fortunately, this champion survived the weekend and made it to the weekday menu.  This extremely flavorsome and juicy patty consists of ground beef, andouille sausage, and bacon.  On a buttery roll, it is stacked with leafy green lettuce, melted cheddar, and a savory "special sauce".  Served with fries, be sure to ask for a side of their homemade ketchup for addictive delicious dunking.  Wash it all down with a mason jar of homemade pink lemonade... 

And though they now feature Robicelli's cupcakes on the dessert menu (blueberry port wine & caramel machiato, to name a few), the homemade treats are some tempting sweet endings, like the strawberry shortcake biscuit and this ice cream sandwich that sent me spiraling back to childhood.  What better simple pleasure than two chewy oatmeal cookies with vanilla ice cream rolled in rainbow sprinkles?

Astor Bake Shop with beer & wine license now open for dinner

(The Astor burger with applewood smoked bacon is jazzed up with swiss cheese, cole slaw, & garlic-pepper mayo)

Astor Bake Shop (12-23 Astoria Blvd., Astoria)

Bakeries in Astoria are a dime a dozen, scattered as frequently as Starbucks in Manhattan.  But a truly spectacular, gourmet bakery like 2010's hot newcomer, Astor Bake Shop, well... places like this are one in a million.  Tonight, an intimate gathering of friends and patrons assembled at ABS to celebrate the holidays, as well as their recently acquired beer & wine license, extended dinner hours (now serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, from 7AM to 9PM weekdays, 8AM to 10PM Saturdays, and 8AM to 9PM Sundays), as well as their A-rating from the Department of Health.

Even sweeter than his stellar baked confections is chef-owner George McKirdy himself,  a superior chef of impressive credentials, having worked in such kitchens as Nobu, TriBeCa Grill, Butter, and Café Boulud prior to opening ABS, his first independent venture under his own direction and vision.

The evening began with a selection of passed small plates, many of which are featured as daily specials alongside the regular menu.  First off were shooters of an exquisitely velvety and robust butternut squash soup, with a tiny dollop of cream, and miniature diced scallions sprinkled like spicy confetti.

Next came a wonderfully light but flavorsome crab salad sandwich, with lump crab meat and chopped winter vegetables, sandwiched on a buttery, light-as-a-feather pastry, almost like a seafood eclair.

Besides slider versions of the deliciously addictive Astor burger (one of Astoria's most underrated burgers, worthy of any "best of" list, in my opinion), we also enjoyed bite-sized shepherd's pie tartlets, a hearty meat ragu on a crisp puff pastry, crowned with whipped sweet potatoes, a beautiful spin on a neighborhood favorite.

An assortment of surprisingly light but outstanding tarte flambee were also enjoyed, one with caramelized onions and cherry tomatoes, this one with salty bits of smoked bacon and white onions, like little french flatbread pizzas.

Although the savory course were genuinely sublime, any guest would be lying to suggest they had come for anything other than George's famous sweets.  You can't stare at pastries like this rustic apple tart all evening (with shaved granny smith apples, walnuts, golden raisins, and a kiss of cocoa powder) and not have a stirring in your sweet tooth.

Flawless classic gingerbread men were studded with crunchy sugar crystals that popped between my teeth, giving way to a buttery, spicy, and moist gingerbread beneath.

His version of a raspberry linzer tart cookie put any other version to utter shame.  Crunchy, spicy, nutty, star-centered cookies sandwich a sweet and tart, luxurious raspberry filling, with a slight powdery dusting of sugar.  Without contest, the most exceptional linzer cookie I have ever enjoyed.  With a glass of eggnog, I could nibble on these all evening.

An array of chewy fudge brownies, pineapple almond cakes, and other sweets circulated the room, but it was this caramel yule log that had caught my eye the moment we walked in.  This holiday treat wins the award for my favorite cake I have tasted in years.  Thin strips of extremely moist vanilla sponge cake are rolled with buttery caramel and fluffy whipped cream, draped in a blanket of even more caramel with chocolate drizzle on top.  Standing guard over this spectacular dessert is a beautiful meringue mushroom, which disappeared as quickly as the cake, like stacked teardrops of crunchy marshmallow giving way to a sweet and chewy middle.  If you go for no other reason, get yourself to the Astor Bake Shop for this dessert alone (a white mocha version is also presently gracing the display case.) 

Gourmet baked goods rising in Astoria

Astor Bake Shop (12-23 Astoria Blvd., Astoria)

Many a baker have set up shop in the historically Greek & Italian pockets of Astoria.  Few, however, bring with them the impressive credentials of Chef George McKirdy.  His experience has taken him from Robert DeNiro's TriBeCa Grill, to Nobu, Butter, and even pastry chef at Café Boulud (just to name a small few of his previous kitchens).  He has even cooked for the legendary Julia Child.  Astor Bake Shop, however, is his own personal labor of love, and one with which he brings along a team of colleagues and recipes with whom he has baked tirelessly over the past twenty years.

When my dear friend, Hayley, mentioned that she had seen passionate discussions on several Astoria message boards, it took very little twisting of my arm to convince me to give this new kid on the block a try.  Having given it a few days for a soft opening, we finally stopped in yesterday afternoon to enjoy this welcome oasis from the steamy summer heat.

Of course we indulged in a sample of the brownies before finding a table.  Is there anything so wrong with a little dessert before dinner?  As we sank our teeth into soft, buttery, gooey chocolate squares of deliciousness, our eyes rolled back and we simply took in the sugar-filled atmosphere.  It's a pristine, spacious, and charming room with exposed brick walls, an open kitchen, marble countertops, and handcrafted tables made from reclaimed farmhouse wood.

In terms of sweets, do not expect a Willy Wonka cornucopia of cases and cases of baked treats.  There is one main display case, and a large counter confetti'd with the day's selections.  Chef McKirdy's primary focus is on quality of goods, rather than quantity.  He doesn't use artificial whipped creams, hydrogenated fats, or shortenings, so you can rest assured everything on the shelf is fresh, and baked with the most quality ingredients available.  The bake shop opens daily at 6:30 a.m., and serves lunch until 3:00 p.m. until more staff can be trained.  The bakery, however, remains open most days until 7 p.m.  Hours will be extended as soon as ample staffing can be provided.  By the fall, the hope to serve a simple dinner selection with an offering of beer and wine, as well.

Astor Bake Shop offers a To Go Lunch Special for $9.50 including a sandwich, 16 oz. beverage, and a large cookie.  I enjoyed a deliciously refreshing glass of salted lemonade.  Almost like a virgin margarita, it was exactly what I needed to quench my thirst on this particularly scorching afternoon.

One of my favorite things about the Bake Shop is that you can enjoy a full lunch before diving into one of the confectioner's treats.  At $7.75 the Astor Burger can hold it's own against any of the neighboring competitors.  Juicy grilled beef is topped with crisp lettuce, sweet grape tomatoes, cheddar cheese, creamy coleslaw, pickles, and spicy Astor sauce (a garlicky, southwestern, chipotle aioli).

I built my own combination with applewood smoked bacon, white cheddar, and tangy pickled onions for $8.  The menu is rounded out with herbed chicken sandwiches, lentil burgers, garden salads, and even breakfast sandwiches (served daily until 10 a.m.)

For $3 we shared a generous basket of handcut herbed french fries accompanied with packets of ketchup.  While the baked goods are the obvious star of the show, the burger and fries were exceptional, especially washed down with the salted lemonade.

After such a fulfilling lunch, choosing dessert was quite a daunting task.  Custard-filled eclairs blanketed in glistening dark chocolate tug at you from behind chilled glass, not to mention the meringue capped dishes of pineapple tres leches.

Ever since reading about it on the message boards, Hayley had been craving the Maize almond cake, so that was a no-brainer.  Almost like a delicious pound cake textured with cornmeal, almond flour, and a kiss of citrus zest to balance the sweet, it was a fine, moist, and exquisite slice of cake.

The inarguable winner of the day, however, was the blueberry butter tart, a sinfully delicious sugar cookie crust filled with gooey butter filling and whole fresh blueberries.  If you have ever claimed to love fresh berries or creamy toffee, this is an absolute must-try.  It vanished in seconds, and I am certain it is what will bring us back for a return visit quite soon.

We ignored the advice to allow the double chocolate cupcake to sit and warm to room temperature, which would have made it even more delicious, I am certain.  The ganache was decadently creamy, and it took serious restraint not to lick the frosting right off the top.  The balance of bitter and sweet was perfect, resulting in a cupcake surprisingly light and not sickeningly rich.

Although everything we sampled was divine beyond description, we eventually raised our white flags in surrender.  I can guarantee, however, that you will find both of us there many more times in the future.  Be sure to call ahead if you are seeking a particular cake or pastry (the red velvet looked exquisite), as they do sell out almost daily.  But if you find that your favorite treat is unavailable, don't let that stop you from sampling something different.  Chef McKirdy knows his way around a pastry kitchen, and he's every bit as kind and sweet as each of his pastries.  It's a real thrill to welcome him to the neighborhood.

No Bluffin' with this Muffin (eatin' cake with Anita Buffem): Martha's Country Bakery

Martha's Country Bakery
36-21 Ditmars Blvd, Astoria

Unlike Manhattan, you won't find a Starbucks on every single, solitary corner in Astoria.  What you will find, however, is a slathering of Greek bakeries, which are sometimes quite disappointingly hit-or-miss.  While I will never turn away a honey-soaked sliver of baklava or a warm, citrusy cream-filled phyllo galaktoboureko, I am sad to report that not all of the patisseries in this greco-centric neighborhood pop out the best of the baked goods.

Although I have waited in line many-a-time for a tasty morsel at some of Manhattan's notorious sweet shops like Magnolia or Crumbs, I can honestly share that my favorite bakery is, in fact, in Astoria... and one worth traveling to in lieu of the city's generous offerings.

Martha's Country Bakery has been satisfying my sweet tooth since I very first moved to New York several years ago.  Though I pride myself in cooking my own dishes to take to dinner parties, when in a pinch, this is one of the only places I will cab it to for a last-minute pie worthy of my endorsement on a table spread.  I may or may not have one time brought one of Martha's mixed berry pies to a party, and upon receiving such rave compliments, may or may not have neglected to reveal that the homemade pie had not exactly been made by me in my own oven... shameful... I know...

Though I try not to indulge in Martha's every single time I crave it, I most recently returned for a ridiculously fun lunch date with the uber-hilarious and multi-talented Travis Barr, alternately adored as Anita Buffem of Sunday Morning Mimosa fame (click here to read my previous entry about the side-splitting comedy troupe).  It was Travis's maiden visit to the bakery, and I was thrilled to show him the ropes.

"Bradley Hawks, what are you trying to do to me?!" I just laughed as we took in the overwhelming selection.  Dare we try one of the muffins?  Which one?

Besides the muffins, there were countless varieties of butter-cream cupcakes, bread puddings, pound cakes, even gelato...

It was an unseasonably gorgeous day, and so after perusing the insane myriad of options in the seemingly endless glass cases, we finally settled at a table on the sidewalk cafe for a slice of cake and coffee al fresco...

Everything at Martha's is immaculate and beautiful.  Look at how you can even see the sky reflecting in the polished knife in the picture above.  Travis settled on the most delicious piece of red velvet cake I have ever tasted.  The cake itself was light and moist, but the decadent cream cheese frosting was absolutely out-of-this-world.

Do you see that?  Are you kidding?  The caramel cake was sinfully divine, with alternating layers of chocolate cake, and creamy chocolate and french vanilla mousse, all drizzled with buttery caramel and crowned with ruby strawberry.

Though Martha's features both classic and contemporary American desserts, we at least threw a nod to the Greek neighborhood with a particularly tasty frappé.  A frappé is an extremely popular Greek java concoction -- essentially a shaken, foam-covered iced coffee drink.  It can traditionally be ordered sweet (2 teaspoons of spray-dried instant coffee and 4 teaspoons of sugar), medium (2 t. coffee + 2 t. sugar), or plain (2 t. coffee with no sugar)... and also with or without evaporated milk.  And yes, as you may have surmised, we indulged in a "sweet" frappé-milk (the proper term when ordering).

The next time you find yourself in Manhattan contemplating waiting in some heinous cue for a pastry... hop on the train and take the short 20-minute ride on the N or W to the Ditmars stop, and enjoy the five-block stroll to Martha's Country Bakery.  Not only will you save yourself from wasting time standing in line, but you'll find yourself on a field trip to what is probably a far superior bakery in one of New York's most colorful and diverse neighborhoods.