Sunday, July 22, 2012

It's so hard to say goodbye to Kauai

Waimea Canyon, "The Grand Canyon of the Pacific"
Aptly referred to as the Garden Isle, Kauai makes New Jersey's moniker as the "Garden State" seem almost laughable.  The oldest of the main Hawaiian islands, it is home to the exotic Na Pali coast, the setting of much of the filming of Jurassic Park and South Pacific, as well as the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific".  If limited in time on Kauai, the best investment I could recommend would be renting a car, tuning the dial to one of the local independent music stations (I am still searching much of what I heard on iTunes), and simply driving.  This island is completely laid back...  there was often a 15 second gap between songs on the radio, and I had to use an 80s-style arcade skeeball token to exit the gate at the car rental place, where after realizing there were no economy cars left, my attendant grinned and said, "awww... just pick whichever one you want."  So we pulled out in a full-size SUV at no extra charge.  Every corner turned holds a new breath-stealing scene, and it will only take a few miles to fall in love and see why so many who visit choose never to return home.


But be ye forewarned, this island paradise is marked by one slightly unnerving surprise to one ornithophobe such as myself (imagine a much younger Bradley building a sand castle in Florida while unbeknownst to him being dusted with bread crumbs by a tormented sibling--a retribution which I admittedly deserved--rendering me a seagull smorgasbord, henceforth scarring me for life)... and that surprise is that the entire island is run by wild roosters.  Yes, run by them.  I half imagined them separating into Sharks and Jets, engaged in a dance-off for corners of the parking lot.  My first encounter was at the car rental desk at Lihue Airport, when a technicolor cock went strutting behind the counter.  Unmiffed, the attendant explained that it was quite common, and that my rental car was in a portion of the lot many of the roosters call home.  If you, too, fear feathered foes, allow extra time for fowl confrontations.


Much to the amusement of my friend, Matt, there were several times where I was trapped in the car waiting for ravenous birds to move away, realizing I did not come bearing snacks as so many visitors apparently do.


The flight itself to Kauai is shorter than a subway ride from Queens to Coney Island, and if you must choose between a helicopter tour of one island and a flight to visit a different island, absolutely choose the latter (several low fares are available if you check for specials).  The Hawaiian Airlines team somehow finds a way to serve local snacks and a glass of that addictive POG (Passion-Orange-Guava) during the seeming five minutes the plane is neither ascending or landing.  And you simply must see more than just one island.


Gazing jaw-dropped out the window makes the cost of an inter-island flight worth the ticket alone.  I doubt any helicopter ride could have made me gasp in awe nearly as much as this surreal view from my window seat flying between islands.  I'll keep saying it... if you've already traveled out to see at least one island, you should definitely try to visit as many as you can... it's mind-boggling how unique they each are.


Any food-lover visiting Kauai should plan an off-the-beaten-path detour to Hamura's Saimin, a tiny little noodle shop tucked behind a Salvation Army.  No, literally when I called and asked the address for my GPS, the woman on the other end paused, and said, "I'm not sure... but we are behind the Salvation Army."

Saimin is a noodle soup dish unique to Hawaii, a sort of island wuzzle of Japanese udon, Chinese mein, and Filipino pancit.  It includes a thin wheat egg noodle in dashi, garnished with a myriad of toppings, inluding, you guessed it... diced Spam.  The "special saimin" at Hamura's is also loaded with homemade dumplings, fish cakes, diced green onions, and hard-boiled eggs, among other goodies.  The menu is displayed on a concession-stand style push board over the kitchen window, with other dishes of note including wontons and the delicious chicken yakitori skewers we devoured.  The counter is like a never ending zigzag weaving through the brightly lit room, with families of locals squatting practically back-to-back on low stools eagerly slurping noodles.  This isn't fine dining... it's just good ol' fashioned yummy soul food.


And no matter how full you think you are, order a slice of the lilikoi chiffon pie, like a delicate, fluffy mountain cloud of passionfruit with a dollop of whipped cream on a flaky pastry crust.  Packed the entire time we were there, the whole communal-style restaurant has the nostalgic charm of a sixties school cafeteria, with a group of middle-aged women giggling in the kitchen, lovingly ladling endless bowls of noodles.  And for one of my favorite dining experiences in Hawaii, everything came to just about $10 per person.

Hamura Saimin on Urbanspoon


The Kauai Marriott Resort is a destination all on its own, as well, situated on 800 acres facing Kalapaki Bay in Lihue.  Hawaiian architects seem to be experts at concealing, because the entryway indicates not even the slightest hint of the spectacular hotel beyond the front doors (a theme we noticed all over the islands).  After descending a grand escalator from the front lobby, you travel through what seems like an endless lush garden of waterfalls and koi ponds to the front desk area, which gloriously opens to sunlit vaulted ceilings like a grand museum of Hawaiian sculptures, paintings, and giant wood-carved canoes.  Beyond that sits one of the largest pools in the State of Hawaii, with a palm tree island at its center, and several "petals" of the pool, each complete with their own jacuzzi under grand roman pillars.  At night-time, the dramatically lit effect is that of a giant Gatsby pool party, with stone statues spewing fountains into the glowing water.

This is actually just a small puddle about a foot in diameter.  I held the camera low, creating the effect of a desert pond.  The red clay is actually oxidized, iron-rich, volcanic rock.  Definitely don't wear new white shoes if you go hiking.
Though the resort tempted us to stay and sunbathe and sip cocktails at the pool and pristine private beach, Kauai is far too beautiful not to explore.  We left the hotel at around 7 a.m. to head toward Waimea Canyon, "The Grand Canyon of the Pacific" (see the photo at the heading of this post).  The canyon road to the summit seems hopelessly endless... at the end of one hill, a slight dip leads directly to another, as you perpetually ascend this Pacific Mt. Olympus.  And as you glance off the side of the road, trees, waterfalls, and birds grow infinitesimally smaller below.  But the drive is one of the most scenic I have ever taken, and an absolute must for any visitor.  I cannot fathom visiting Kauai and not driving it again.  We pulled off several times for some off-road hiking, which is where we took the photo above.


For scale perspective (and because I get a wee bit queasy at heights) I stayed back to snap this image of my friend, Matt, who bravely trekked way off the beaten path.  In this image, he's belting out the Crossroads anthem (don't act like you don't know the movie), "I'm Not A Girl, Not Yet a Woman" as the whole scene looked a little bit like the Britney Spears video.  But in all seriousness, Waimea Canyon is a majestic site that made a profound impression on us both.  Had we much more time, I could have spent the whole morning sitting in the crisp, thin air, staring at the sunlight poking streams through the clouds into the green canyons.


For lunch, we decided to stay close to the hotel, and try out a favorite recommended to us by a local at the airport, Duke's Barefoot Bar.  Named in honor of Duke Paoa Kahanamoku, the famous Olympic swimmer and "Father of International Surfing," the open air patio and indoor gardens overlooking the beach make an ideal setting for an oceanfront lunch.  The crab and macadamia nut wontons are exceptional, especially dipped in the tangy plum mustard sauce.  While I was torn on a main dish (there's a Hawaiian pizza with Thai chili sauce and Kalua pork), I decided to take the initial recommendation our new friend had suggested, and went for a burger.  But not just any burger... one with an island twist.  The Mango BBQ Bacon Burger is crazy tasty, with a sweet mango BBQ glaze, cheddar cheese, applewood smoked bacon, and grilled onions on a patty of local grass fed beef.  I could have easily devoured more than one, but saving room for a large dinner later on, this lunch was the perfect satisfaction for a midday craving.  And the name lived up to itself, as customers left their slippers (not flipflops... slippers) at the door.

Duke's Kauai on Urbanspoon

Matt enjoying some water time at the pristine Tunnels Beach near Hanalei, where South Pacific was filmed.
After lunch, we drove along the north side of the island.  Several excursions are available to see the Na Pali Coast by water or air, but we didn't have the time... but definitely wanted to see as much as we could.  We kept pinching ourselves at the Garden of Eden landscape, half expecting a pterodactyl to fly across the sky, or a velociraptor to scramble across the roadway.

Why did this view make me somehow want to watch The Goonies?
The drive along the coast is incomparably gorgeous, passing through forests, over cliffs, past a lighthouse, and through one-lane bridges (a sign informed us that island courtesy is to allow five cars to pass before proceeding across the bridge... could you imagine that in Manhattan!?!), the whole while turquoise-blue-aqua water glistens like an ocean of opals to the right of you.


There are even hidden caverns carved into the mountains on the north side of the island.  Not dressed for spelunking, we cautiously ventured in as far as we could.  I took this shot from deep inside the cavern.  That's a full-size SUV parked on the street, for reference.  And the passengers that accompany that SUV disappeared much further into the darkness...


After cleaning up for dinner, we discovered that another unique natural site was located just a few minutes down the road from our restaurant destination, so before heading to Beach House in Koloa, we took a slight detour to visit Spouting Horn.  Crashing waves push water upwards through holes in the lava rock as high as fifty feet, creating rainbows in the mist just before sunset.  A nearby blowhole that shoots only air creates a mighty hissing sound as the water sprays, creating an even more dramatic effect.  It's hypnotic, and you find yourself watching much longer than should probabkly be captivating,

Seared Island Fresh Ahi Poke in crispy lumpia bowl with Asian slaw, wasabi mirin aioli, and tobiko...

Eagerly arriving at dinner, it became quite evident that Beach House is the optimal viewing spot for the sunset.  A tip: do not argue with the hostess or try to pay her off for an actual window table.  In this open air restaurant, they have thoughtfully terraced the levels, so no matter where you are sitting, there is an unobstructed view of the sunset and waterfront.  I watched as the host staff extremely professionally handled a smackably rude guest barking that his wife had traveled to Hawaii just to sit at a window table at the Beach House at sunset (yet he had miraculously neglected to make a reservation for his soul mate's midlife sojourn to mecca!)  We happily dined on one of the inner and upper levels, and it was perfect.  The restaurant could have easily been named Honeymoon Hut, or even Noah's Ark, as most guests seem to arrive by twos.


For starters, the wasabi-kissed ahi poke is delicious, especially served in the lumpia bowl, from which you can tear away little wafers of spring roll wrapper to pinch bits of seared tuna with the crunchy Asian slaw.  The ceviche, beautifully presented in a coconut, is one of the most delicious preparations I have enjoyed anywhere, with tiger prawns, scallops, and fish marinated in citrus and passion fruit with crisp cucumber medallions and juicy cubes of tomato and creamy avocado.  And while your mother may have always warned you not to fill up on the bread, the ciabatta is especially addictive, served warm and prepared with red alaea sea salt, a Hawaiian salt said to contain over 80 minerals, turned red from actual bits of volcanic clay.  Also kissed with sea salt is the delicious beet salad, with gorgonzola crumbles, macadamia nuts, and a drizzle of truffle oil.


Though we enjoyed the wasabi crusted opakapaka "lobster of the sea" with lilikoi lemongrass beurre blanc, the trophy goes to the miso marinated monchong with richly layered flavors from shitake mushrooms to daikon, cilantro, ong choi, and delicate fish fume.  The subtle Asian flavors deliciously accented this meaty fish, and it was a beautiful presentation.


The molten chocolate cake with espresso creme anglaise was as gooey and decadent as any I've enjoyed, but the dessert that sent our heads swimming was the bananas foster, which arrives on a flaky puff pastry in caramel sauce with macadamia nuts and vanilla bean ice cream.

Truly a special meal on one of the most beautiful islands in the world, the service was exceptional but never overbearing.  I have rarely seen such teamwork from a staff, which was refreshing.  As a guest, it is usually obvious which head server, busser, and food runner fall into which teams and sections throughout the dining room.  At Beach House, the staff appears to treat the whole floor as one section, ensuring each guest is taken care of regardless of placement on a floor plan.  All of that, with the setting, and brightly colored contemporary oil paintings decorating the walls, it's easy to see why guests flock to this restaurant.  And then we flocked straight back to the hotel to decompress in the jacuzzi under the starlight, making a perfect Hawaii evening.

Beach House on Urbanspoon


The next morning, with little time before our flight to Maui, of course we made one final road trip to try the highly-acclaimed Puka Dog. That's "pooh-kah" as opposed to the alternative tragic mispronunciation.  Set in yet another concealed shopping center called Poipu Village, this little hot dog hut had a line winding into the courtyard.  My friend laughed, and said, "so we've found the Hawaiian Shake Shack," referencing the Danny Myer phenomenon in NYC that always has a line down the street.  Maybe we'd be frazzled running to our flight, but this would surely be worth it.

As puka is island for "hole," they take a squishy fresh bun, and then spear it over a heated prong sticking up from the stovetop, which not only pokes a hole, but then toasts the inside of the bun to crispy deliciousness.  The inside is then slathered with a secret garlic lemon sauce (available in degrees of mild to crazy spicy), as well as your choice of fruit relish.  I went with mango, but patrons choose from banana, starfruit (which is seasonal, and was not available), papaya, coconut, or pineapple relish, as well as sweet or tangy mustards available in passionfruit or guava.  After gooped up with goodies, they then stuff a polish sausage, and presto, you a Hawaiian Puka Dog.

When you can take an All-American comfort food and creatively transform it to juxtapose sweet, savory, spicy, tart, fluffy, and crunchy... all for the price of a roundtrip subway fare in NYC... well, then you've won me over.  Add this fantastic frankfurter to one of their chilled plastic cups of state fair fresh squeezed lemonade, and it was the perfect little pat on the back from Kauai as we departed an island that will forever remain one of my favorite places on earth.

Puka Dog (Poipu Shopping Village) on Urbanspoon

We did all of this in about 36 hours!  And remember, you can enjoy Beach House on Kauai courtesy of Urbanspoon, with flights generously provided by Hawaiian Airlines and gorgeous accommodations by Marriott just like I did.  All you have to do is click here to learn how (it's easy--you just make a reservation on Urbanspoon for a chance to win your own trip!)

Wednesday, July 18, 2012

Aloha Oahu

View from our room at the Marriott Waikiki Beach Resort & Spa
Everyone we met referred to Waikiki as the L.A. of Hawaii, but that hardly does it any justice.  As a New Yorker, the pristine strip along the beach certainly has elements of Fifth Avenue with its designer stores, and Times Square with the International Marketplace and its 130+ carts, stands, and artisan shops.  One of the main differences is that prices actually are pretty reasonable--I had a difficult time justifying haggling down the price on a $3 bracelet I liked.  Another difference is that everyone is beautiful... whether it's the beauty of native islander's mocha skin, the muscle definition that results from surfing rather than spending an afternoon in a New York Sports Club, or the beauty of genuine hospitality you'd only expect to find in the Midwest or South mainland USA.  While Honolulu and Waikiki may not even scratch the surface of what it is to truly visit Hawaii and its lush islands, they offer a lovely transition and introduction to the Aloha spirit.  And for night owls visiting from the mainland, this is your last chance to enjoy a city that never sleeps.  Because beyond this bustling pedestrian plaza, most Hawaiian cities do go to sleep, and fairly early.

Chef Chai's Signature Combination Appetizer Platter
While Chef Chai Chaowasaree's plates on Hawaiian Airlines made for exceptional mile high meals, there is no denying a kitchen on the ground blows any strato-kitchen to smithereens.  With his heritage in thai cuisine and the vibrant flavors of the Pacific Rim blended with the fresh offerings of the Hawaiian Islands, Chai's Island Bistro should be the first stop for any traveler to Oahu.

Nestled into the plazas at Aloha tower, the main dining room is grandiose, regal, and Asian, with gigantic lanterns, statues, and curtains of shimmering stones partitioning the open kitchen.  While the menu offers several tasting options, you can easily build a delicious meal on your own.  The appetizer sampler reads like a 101 course in island eating: shot glasses of velvety butternut squash and lobster bisque, a tobiko-studded salmon roulade stuffed with crabmeat and cream cheese on a cucumber pedestal, jumbo black tiger prawns robed in crispy shreds of kataifi and macadamia nuts drizzled with pineapple vinaigrette, and sweet Alaskan king crab cakes with tomato mango salsa and roasted garlic aioli.  Washed down with a "Chai Tai" or melon martini, it's practically a meal in and of itself.


For main courses, we enjoyed local monchong, a mild, steaky fish blanketed in lobster cream sauce over a bed of butternut squash and zucchini linguini.  And while we were certainly eager to indulge in the island's seafood, who could resist this "Deconstructed Beef Tenderloin Wellington," a grilled 9 oz. filet mignon medallion over mashed island taro, glistening in a merlot demiglace, and capped with a mushroom foie gras truffle puff.  It was every bit as delicious and sinful as it sounds, and truly one of the most spectacular steak presentations I have enjoyed in a very long time.


Desserts ranged from a creme brulee sampler (chocolate with Tahitian vanilla beans, Chai's tea, and Thai coffee) to this decadent vintage chocolate mousse pyramid.  But the real treat was Chef Chai, himself, joining us as our meal drew to a close.  A local celebrity and television host, he graciously posed for photographs with patrons, and then joined us for some wonderful conversation, discussing the new culinary trends in New York City, the differences between dining in the Big Apple and on the islands, and sharing with us his personal journey as a chef.  The kind of guy you want to hug, I did just that before leaving.  Part of what I love most about my job is meeting the people behind the food.  When they turn out to be as generous in spirit and hospitality as Chef Chai, it makes what was already a delicious meal just that much more memorable.

Chai's Island Bistro on Urbanspoon


For the next day, we knew we had previously struck gold at Chai's, and should probably go the more casual route.  Taking the recommendation of a local we'd met at the International Market, we drove slightly off the beaten path to the base of Diamond Head--our destination, Rainbow Drive-In.  Visiting this fifty year old snack shack is like traveling back in time.  I kept backwards glancing over my shoulder, half expecting Elvis to roll up on skates.  And if the clientele of construction workers and police officers were any indication, this place is the real deal.


Plate lunches range from $6 to $8 and include an entree, two scoops of rice, and macaroni salad or slaw.  Of course I had to try my first loco moco... two scoops of rice with a grilled hamburger patty, brown gravy, and a fried egg.  And a side of spam, of course!  It's almost like the official state meat (they even serve spam breakfasts at the McDonald's here... and no, I did not try McSpam.) While loco moco is anything but light, it certainly is delicious, best described as a salisbury steak benedict... and best enjoyed with one of Rainbow Drive-In's giant plastic cups of fountain fruit punch, the kind that leaves a red mustache for the rest of the day.  Simple pleasures are some of the very best, and it's easy to see why this no frills joint has maintained popularity with the locals.

Rainbow Drive-in on Urbanspoon



Though we stopped briefly for snorkeling at Hanauma Bay, much of the area was closed off due to dangerous conditions, and so we soon continued on to our next resort, the Ihilani JW Marriott Resort & Spa.  Though I am a fan of beautiful properties, my family philosophy growing up was that hotels are simply where you sleep... and that we should always explore beyond what seems to be a wonderful pool or extravagant sun deck.  This JW Marriott is absolutely an exception to that rule, a destination in and of itself.  As you can see above the view from my bedroom (where we were met with a gift platter of chocolate covered macadamia nuts, glazed pineapple scones, and fresh loaves of banana bread), the resort sits on a private lagoon of crystal clear water, complete with its own snorkeling reefs.


Weary from travel, we decided to park ourselves at the resort, swimming the afternoon away in the lagoon, and sipping banana kahlua coladas from hollowed pineapples, nibbling ahi poke (a popular Hawaiian soy-sesame sashimi salad) with chopsticks from the hotel's outdoor bar.  


At sunset, we walked a short distance down the beach to these breathtaking tide pools in black volcanic rock.  Tiny crab fed on small fish trapped in the pools, as waves perpetually splashed new treasures into the bowls.  The waves ceased just long enough to allow the waters to momentarily still, permitting me to capture this reflective image above.  It's just one of the many small miracles we witnessed on these tranquil, majestic islands.  And it was just the rejuvenation we needed before heading to the airport for Kauai the next day--an island that would demand all of our energy, and a portion of the trip that I will surely never forget.

* * * * *

Remember:  Urbanspoon (partnered with Hawaiian Airlines and Marriott) is going to give away a trip for two to Hawaii with meals at some of the restaurants I visited, including Chai's Island Bistro.  All you have to do is make a restaurant reservation in NYC! Click here for more details.

Thursday, July 12, 2012

Urbanspoon Island Hopper Trip * You Can Relive My Trip!

The view from my hotel room of the private white sand lagoon at the Ihilani JW Marriott
This is INCREDIBLE!  So I am presently on the Urbanspoon Island Hopper Trip in Hawaii just a few hours from my flight from Kauai to Maui, and I just received notification that Urbanspoon will be giving away a SECOND trip for someone to have the same experience on the islands!

All you have to do is book reservations at any New York City restaurant through Urbanspoon for a chance to win the following:

* First Class tickets for TWO on Hawaiian Airlines
* 8 nights of accomodations on four islands through Marriott Hotels
* Dinner for two at a restaurant on each of the four islands (read my upcoming posts for a preview of those restaurants!)

I am extremely honored to announce this giveaway--click on this link for full details.

And be sure to check upcoming posts about my trip to see just how unbelievable this giveaway is!

Urbanspoon Island Hopper Trip * The Flight

A birdseye view of Oahu
The very second you sit down in the Hawaiian Airlines plane at JFK, the mere energy in the cabin gently squeezes your shoulder and hushes you to calm down.  Sunkissed attendants with flowers in their hair greet you with a glass of POG, a blend of passion fruit, orange, and guava that I will forever crave and associate with my time in Hawaii (I have even been stocking my hotel fridge with cans of it from the local bodegas!)

Flying anywhere can be intimidating, especially on a ten hour sojourn over the ocean.  And so of course you find yourself superficially assessing each fellow passenger, and determining which role they would play in your new version of "Lost".  But the truth is the new direct flight from JFK to Honolulu is surprisingly comfortable, even enjoyable.  It was so smooth, in fact, that not once was did the fasten seatbelt sign light up other than at take-off and landing.

Soy-ginger Mahi Mahi with bok choy, a colorful beet salad, and spicy island chicken are 3 of 5 in-flight meal options.

Besides the fact that from the computer/cinema/playstation built into my seat I was able to watch on demand music videos of Britney Spears, back episodes of Kath & Kim (the Australian cast!), and a documentary on a Tokyo sushi chef, one of the highlights of the journey is actually the food.

I nearly stole my neighbor's slice of tiramisu torte.

Hawaiian Airline's Executive Chef Chai Chaowasaree, one of the island's most renowned chefs (and television host), recently developed the new meal service for both first class and coach passengers.  And while airplane food is notorious for its mediocrity, the offerings on our flight were far from mediocre, and actually exceptionally delicious.  From a menu card of five options, we were invited to choose three--a fantastic luxury, especially for someone like me who always worries I overlooked a must-try dish.  There's nothing worse than ordering the stuffed chicken only to realize your neighbor's veggie lasagna is the bomb-diggity.  With the "sampler" approach from Hawaiian Air, guests are sure to enjoy the variety.  And we enjoyed not one, but two in-flight meals, along with frequent steamed towels to refresh our faces.  From the genuinely outstanding (and even sometimes very sweet) service, to well-designed morsels that acclimated my palate to island flavors, it was not only a relaxing, but very enjoyable flight--the perfect introduction to the generous spirit and hospitality of the islands I would soon discover just beyond baggage claim.


Tuesday, June 12, 2012

Five Buck Chuck



One of the most delicious things about living in Western Queens is that eating cheap never has to mean settling for cheap quality.  From individual dishes to lunch specials and even full dining experiences, this month we round up some of the neighborhood’s most affordable edibles, showing how to fill up your tank without breaking the bank.

Here are ten penny-pinching but appetite-quenching bites worth mentioning for five bucks or less.

25¢ wings – Tuesday nights from 8 p.m. to midnight, some of Astoria’s most popular wings can be ordered any way you like ‘em for just twenty-five cents a piece.  Dillinger’s Pub & Grill, 46-19 30th Ave, Astoria, NY 11103; (718) 956-5601

$1 caviar – At Kumo Sushi on Northern Boulevard, all of the a la carte sushi is just one dollar, from salmon roe to sea urchin, over thirty pieces of fresh fish and veggies are available for a single buck. Kumo Sushi & Lounge, 47-11 Northern Blvd., Long Island City, NY 11101; (718) 728-9600; www.kumonyc.com


$1.75 – the tamales at De Mole are deliciously steamed in corn husks, available in three different flavors.  Or try the squash blossom quesadilla for $3.50, or any of the $3 tacos; De Mole, 42-20 30th Ave., Astoria, NY 11103; (718) 777-1655; www.demolenyc.com


$2.75 – Like palm-sized pot pies, coxhina de frango y catupiry are tasty egg-shaped golden croquettes stuffed with shredded chicken and creamy cheese.  NY Pao de Queijo, 31-90 30th St., Astoria, NY 11101; (718) 204-1979; www.newyorkpaodequeijo.com


$3.50 – The Completo at San Antonio Bakery arrives on its own little stand, like a pedestal for this famous frank on a homemade bun, topped with sauerkraut, avocado puree, diced tomato, and a zigzag of mayonnaise.  Ask for pebre sauce, too!  San Antonio Bakery 2, 36-20 Astoria Blvd,, Astoria, NY 11103; (718) 777-8733; http://sanantoniobakery.net/                                                                                                                                                                                       


$3.50 – Queens Comfort serves up a delicious version of Elotes Callejero, Mexican street corn on the cob—which is grilled, slathered with mayo, rolled in parmesan, and then drizzled with sriracha.  Queens Comfort, 40-09 30th Ave, Astoria, NY 11103; (718) 728-2350; www.queenscomfort.com


$3.99 – Woodside’s famed Ottomanelli butcher shop opened a burger and Belgian fry joint just down the street, where $3.99 gets you a single burger with any seasoning folded into the meat (chipotle, caramelized onion, roasted garlic, jalapeno-cheddar, or bacon-cheddar).  If you get the fries ($2.89) add a side of truffle parmesan aioli for 79¢; F. Ottomanelli Burgers & Belgian Frites, 60-15 Woodside Ave., Woodside, NY 11377; (718) 446-7489

$4 – The Bok Choy Blossoms at Seva Indian Cuisine are dipped in a chickpea batter and lightly fried, dusted with mango powder, and served with a citrusy mint dipping sauce.  Seva Indian Cuisine, 30-07 34th St., Astoria, NY 11103; (718) 626-4440; sevaindianrestaurant.com

$4.75 – Euro Delights offers over sixty different crepes ranging from sweet to savory.  There’s something to be said for simplicity, however, like the Hot Feeling crepe for $4.74—a simple paper-thin French pancake draped in sugar, butter, and cinnamon.  Euro Delights, 32-02 Broadway, Astoria, NY 11102; http://eurodelightsastoria.com


$5 – The Long Island City Food Truck Lot is home to many affordable eats loved across the city, like Rickshaw dumplings and Pera Tacos, open weekdays from noon to 3 p.m.  But who can resist a homemade gourmet ice cream sandwich from the Coolhaus truck? Long Island City Food Truck Lot, 43-29 Crescent St, Queens, NY, 11101; check http://www.facebook.com/LICfoodtruckLOT for the weekly schedule of trucks.

Thursday, June 7, 2012

Amuse * Bouche is going to Hawaii

Hand decorated custom nut-free kosher cookies at Eleni's in Chelsea Market

It still seems like a dream, but your votes have won me a trip to Hawaii as a guest blogger for Urbanspoon. The trip (dates to be announced soon) includes roundtrip first class airfare from JFK to Hawaii on Hawaiian Airlines' new direct flight linking the Big Apple to the Big Island (yes, the flight is now just under ten hours!), connecting island hopper flights between four islands, four star hotel accommodations on each island, a rental car on each island, and dinner at a restaurant on each island.  In exchange, I get to guest blog for Urbanspoon about the food and culture of the fiftieth state!

So when the Social Media Team from Hawaiian Airlines hopped on the June 4th inaugural flight to JFK, they asked me to guide them for a mini food crawl for a few hours to show a small slice of NYC's diversity.

The best piece of advice I can give any visitor to New York is do a few things really well, rather than a lot of things really quickly.  I have lived in the city for almost ten years, and still haven't seen all I want to see.  Avoid exhaustion and frustration by designing your day around just a few carefully chosen things.  Because there was a slight chance of a thunderstorm, and we only had a few hours, I decided that the Meatpacking District would be an ideal destination.  Two of them had been even lived in New York for awhile, but hadn't visited in a few years.  I knew the High Line would offer something new for them to enjoy.


I met my new friends, Jeremy, Asiana, and Lesa at Chelsea Market--an ideal destination if the weather threatens to make the Big Apple soggy.  This urban market is housed in the former National Biscuit Company factory (Nabisco), which dates back to 1890... and the very site where Oreo cookies were first invented and produced.  The megacomplex has now been transformed into an endless thoroughfare of restaurants, food stands, and markets to tempt every type of taste bud.  The spaces on the upper levels are now home to The Food Network, Oxygen Network, MLB.com, Google, and the studios where Iron Chef America and Emeril Live are filmed.


The group unanimously decided that nothing is more classic New England than a classic lobster roll, so we headed directly to The Lobster Place.  Our buttery New England style roll was toasted, and then loaded with sweet fresh claw and tail meat lightly tossed in a zesty lemon pepper mayo with celery and scallion medallions and a bibb lettuce skirt, served with chips and creamy cole slaw.


Two diners beside has had taken advantage of the wide array of fresh seafood, and were scooping forkfuls of fresh uni straight from the shell.

Eleni's Cookies

Next, Lesa led us to the chocolate shop of Jacques Torres, who is known as "Mr. Chocolate".  The gang sampled chocolates filled with a rum-kissed liquid caramel, triggering instantaneous ear-to-ear smiles.  We also made stops at Eleni's cookies, the Fat Witch Bakery (where Jeremy picked up some treats for his wife of thirteen years--this very day was their anniversary--congrats!), gawked as golden twists, loaves, and infinite trays of rolls came piping from the ovens at Amy's Bread.  Senses stimulated to the point of delirium, we decided to head across the street to Colicchio & Sons, one of my favorite restaurants in America, and namesake of Bravo's Top Chef Head Chef, Tom Colicchio.


While we awaited our table, we saddled up at the gorgeous bar, backed by a remarkable two-level glass wine tower.  The bartender mixed us up this classic vodka martini, and a non-alcoholic blend of foraged ginger tea, ginger beer, honey, and lemon which tickled my nose and awakened my palate.


Though we struggled to narrow down just a few plates to share before heading to our next destination, our good intentions proved in vain.  The team at Colicchio & Sons must have known our weaknesses (though quite literally everything on the menu tempted at least someone at our table).  A chorus of servers arrived at our table in a synchronized sweep, and before each of us were placed chilled bowls of mint-infused cucumber gazpacho, as if someone had placed into a bowl a delicate, cool cloud of spring garden and chilled breeze.  Glistening butsu cubes of a wonderfully subtle salmon tartare arrived in a shimmery pool of miso vinaigrette, scarfed with sweet and crunchy julienned jicama.


Bone marrow rendered helplessly creamy like a savory butterscotch dueted with a salty contrasting boquerones and piquant salsa verde.  Though none of us had enjoyed bone marrow with sardines, it now seems lackluster to enjoy it any other way.


A quartet of four types of crisp peas snapped gorgeously under tooth, adorned with citrus yogurt and a snowcap of ricotta salata.


No sooner had the first round of plates been gracefully removed from the table in unison, then a new kaleidoscope of colors and flavors replaced them.  Prince Edward Island mussels that had been gently coaxed into smiling arrived swimming in a broth of sweet fennel, tangy tomatoes, and mildly spiced chorizo, like little fire-kissed treasures of the ocean.  These plump gems were the most exquisite I have ever tasted.


One of my favorite aspects of Colicchio & Sons is that the aforementioned wine cellar and bar beautifully partitions the room into two unique dining experiences, intended to cater to two very different dining needs.  The back dining room is where I might sit if the meal was intended to be the evening in and of itself.  The menu features several tasting options that have been ornamented with delightful amuse bouches and mignardises, and a meal with great converation and award-winning food can easily span hours.  The front room, called the Tap Room, features a broader array of individual plates, more rustic in nature, often slow-roasted, and prepared in the stone hearth near the entryway... allowing diners the same delicious caliber of ingredients, but in a setting more conducive to a craft beer or cocktail, with plates shared by the table.  And though the Main Dining Room has provided me one of the most fantastic dinners I will remember for a lifetime, one major drawing card for the Tap Room is its carefully editing selection of brick oven pizzas.  The one I shared with my Hawaiian comrades was blanketed with buttery, nutty taleggio, salty crumbles of prosciutto, tender ribbons of baby leeks, and garlicky dollops of sofrito, all on a fire-kissed thin crust with an outer crunch that yields to a soft center.


The boudin noir appeared like a red velvet angel food cake benedict, the tender sausage feeling similar to a light, smoky mousse, in a decadently velvety potato puree with roasted apples, capped with an egg whose soft center served as a luxurious sauce, unifying all of the rich flavors.  This is a dish unlike any I have had, and one that I will most certainly recall for years.


Thick medallions of crispy coated pork belly gave way to a most surprisingly tender bacon center, all fanned on a pedestal of woodland mushrooms, plump gnochhi, and a sweet maple jus, almost like a pastoral breakfast pasta for dinner.


And though ordering items from the next room's menu is not encouraged, our server won my heart when he brought us my very favorite dish from the dining room, this stinging nettle fettuccini with roasted tomato, briny castelvetrano olives, and confit duck.  The perfectly al dente pasta ribbons sing of a lush forest, woven with the olives and tomatoes to almost resemble a vibrant duck puttanesca.  It's one of the very special, ephemeral dishes that will soon disappear with the season, and I will genuinely miss it.

Thank you to the whole Colicchio & Sons team for creating a very special memory for us the way only you can.  My new friends commented that the service was just as delicious as the food, and how refreshing it was to see a diversity of personalities working beautifully together to make us feel very welcomed.  Lesa even stopped our server, Thanh, and asked, "you really love working here, don't you?  I can tell..."  A very special thank you to Thanh, as well as the managers Cyndra and Pedro who both stopped by the table and made my new friends feel extremely welcomed and taken care of.  But also, thanks to the impressive team of runners and attendants who somehow choreographed everything to create what was definitely the most memorable stop in our journey.

The High Line, NYC's elevated city park...

To walk off the feast, we took a very leisurely stroll along the High Line... amazed at how dramatically different the city looks from just a few stories about street level...

View from the High Line


Though we ended our evening at the 50,000 square foot Italian culinary wonderland known as Eataly, we were still far too full to indulge in any of its delicious offerings.


Well, except for a cup of Venchi's Gianduja drinking chocolate, of course... (it pours directly from a brass sink faucet!)

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