If the stomach is the way to the heart... 10 Great Valentine's Spots

The Berry Fromage Blanc (cheesecake cups) at DiWine are perfect for sharing.

As seen in the February 2013 issue of BORO Magazine.

Determining that ‘just right’ Valentine’s Day restaurant calls for more than merely a stellar kitchen—it begs the perfect ambiance, elevated air of intimacy, and perhaps something that strays from the usual routine.  Read on for 10 local, unique, romantic suggestions, where Cupid has exquisitely skewered everything from setting and menu to service, and in some cases, even actual hearts.

Fra Diavola Pizza & Rigatoni with Meatballs at Manducatis Rustica

“Did you know that asparagus can significantly impact orgasm?” coyly smiles Gianna Cerbone--of Manducatis Rustica in Long Island City—who plans to serve a “very special Valentine’s Day menu full of aphrpdisiacs.” Part chef and owner, part unofficial social mayor of the neighborhood, part writer, part local celebrity—Cerbone is always ‘Mamma Gianna’ in the way she deliciously delivers wit, wisdom, and some of the best gelato in the city (unconventional flavors evoke ‘the last sip of a glass of chocolate milk’ or a ‘citrus-kissed sea breeze’). Be prepared to blush while she boldly explains the menu and the benefits of certain ingredients to stamina and libido. The Valentine’s menu will not be officially revealed until just a few days prior—depending on what is crisp and fresh in the local market. Those with less lusty appetites will find equal pleasure in Cerbone’s pasta and pizza specials, which include monolithic meatballs in a sweet tomato sauce. Maducatis Rustica | 46-35 Vernon Blvd, Long Island City | 718-937-1312 | www.manducatisrustica.com

Lemon & Sugar Buckwheat Crepe with Mixed Berry Compote at Cafe Triskell

There’s nothing quite like pancakes for dinner, especially when those pancakes are Café Triskell’s tissue-paper thin buckwheat crepes painstakingly prepared in the culinary tradition of Brittany in France. Triskell is one of those inconspicuous thin windows between more prominent buildings you stroll by a hundred times without taking notice. But once you pass through that tiny doorway and are transported to a secluded, rustic, French café with one cook, one server, and just a handful of tables, your impression of 36th Ave will never be the same. Daily specials are scribed on a chalkboard and their Facebook page (the pot pie is unrivaled in comfort, and order anything with bay scallops.) Chef Phillippe Fallait, a pastry chef by training, showcases both savory and sweet crepes on the permanent menu. Dessert here is a must, with flute of sparkling apple cider. The lemon and sugar crepe is sublime, or a plain crepe with a shot glass of Fallait’s signature banana fudge jam will leave your lips sweet for a French after-dinner kiss. Café Triskell | 33-04 36th Ave, Astoria | 718-472-0612 | www.cafetriskell.com

Sesame-Crusted Feta Saganaki with Wild Berry Compote at Thymari

A love affair with Astoria’s food scene would be incomplete without an appreciation of the neighborhood’s rich Greek tradition, an ethnic imprint visible in the names of the local parks and some of the longest-thriving restaurants. Bringing classic Greek tradition into a contemporary light comes Thymari—meaning ‘thyme’, which runs wild in the Greek countryside. Settle into a casual pillow-backed seat in the front café, or a table in the dramatically-lit back dining room, where over 20 Greek wines are beautifully displayed climbing a staircase to the ceiling. Feta saganaki is elevated here, encrusted in sesame seeds with a ribbon of wild berry compote. Named after a goddess of the sea, the Thalassinon orzo is studded with thyme-kissed medallions of shrimp and mussels in a rich tomato reduction. Finish the evening with a sweet wine, a baklava martini, or a stemless glass of amaretto and walnut sauce-capped panna cotta. Thymari | 32-07 34th Ave, Astoria | 718-204-2880 | www.thymari.com

Steak au Poivre at Stove

One of Astoria’s best-kept secrets is Stove, where Irish-born Chef-Owner Declan Cass serves Great Britain-inspired dishes (the fish ‘n chips are a textbook rendition) alongside inventive New American cuisine, ultimately offering something for everyone. The narrow, flickering-sconce-lit restaurant is just enough off the beaten path to feel secluded and special, yet within walking distance of Steinway’s thoroughfare and just one block from the 46th St stop on the Q18. Thanks to a recent revamp of the menu, Stove classics like the grilled Angus shell steak with creamy peppercorn or the honey-glazed five-spiced ribs are now joined by a mesquite BBQ butter pork loin haystacked with frizzled onions and a trout almondine with beurre noisette. The Downton Abbey set will want to stick around for proper English desserts like a sherry trifle or homemade apple pie blanketed with a sweet ribbon of crème anglaise. Stove | 45-17 28th Ave, Astoria | 718-956-0372 | www.stoveastoria.com

Cannoli Trio at Tufino Pizzeria Napoletana

This is the pizzeria that love built, the wood-fired oven named for pizzaiolo Stephen Menna’s wife (and co-owner) Maria. Tufino turns out sensational Neapolitan pies in a variety of unique topping combinations (one has pistachios, another is sweetened with honey picante) but be certain to share some of the dolcetti fritti or ‘fried treats’ to start. Tufino Pizzeria Napoletana | 36-08 Ditmars Blvd, Astoria | 718-278-4800 | www.tufinopizzeria.com

Toasted Mantou with Spicy Sausage & Quail Eggs at Biang! in Downtown Flushing

Couples craving a little spice and adventure should take the 7 train to Flushing for a Western Chinese dinner at Biang! From their famous hand-stretched noodles (the restaurant’s name mimics the slap against the cutting board) to cumin-kissed skewers of chicken hearts and even a ‘spicy and tingly lamb face salad’ this place is the real deal… and super-affordable. Biang! | 41-10 Main Street, Flushing | 718-888-7713 | www.biang-nyc.com

Salmon cured in sunflower oil and sea salt, with smoked sprat in chili oil, sunflower seeds, & soy paste at Bear

For that guaranteed ‘wow factor’, book a reservation for the Chef’s tasting menu at Bear. At Long Island City’s nouveau European restaurant, Chef Natasha Pogrebinsky has crafted a breathtaking menu, where each memorable bite is as beautiful as it is delicious. Less ambitious diners can build a meal of small ‘bites’ that are equally spectacular. Bear Restaurant | 12-14 31st Ave, Long Island City | 917-396-4939 | www.bearnyc.com

Maine Lobster Pizza with sherry cream sauce, asparagus, and manchego at DiWine

From drape-partitioned booths and pillow-harnessed banquettes to a wine guillotine, DiWine is always a sexy destination—offering a $55 3-course prix fixe for V-Day. Pair morsels from the brick oven (a new Lobster pizza with sherry cream and asparagus steals the show) with a selection of over twenty wines ($8 for a glass; $32 per any bottle). DiWine | 41-15 31st Ave, Astoria | 718-777-1355 | www.diwineonline.com

Spaghetti with Rabbit Ragout, Dandelion Greens, & Grana Padano at LIC Marker

For those hearts seeking a market-driven, seasonal, locally-sourced meal in a charmingly provincial dining room that unfolds just beyond a quaint mini country store, there is no need to search further than LIC Market, whose menu evolves daily, featuring everything from shredded brisket to spaghetti with rabbit ragout and dandelion greens—with truffles frequently headlining in various forms. LIC Market | 21-52 44th Dr, Long Island City | 718-361-0013 | www.licmarket.com

Croissant Bread Pudding from Cafe Henri

Seek solace from the town square where Vernon and Jackson merge just beyond the front doors of Café Henri, one of Long Island City’s sweet, window-lit French cafés. From an herb-spruced croque madame, to classic coq au vin, and a croissant pudding laced with ribbons of Callebaut chocolate, the service and food here is deliciously French… sans the pretense. Café Henri | 10-10 50th Ave, Long Island City | 718-383-9315

Celebrate the 'Old New Year' at Bear this Monday

Sea-salt-cured salmon, with sunflower oil, smoked sprat with chile, sunflower seeds, and soy paste

The following is an expanded version of my previous post on Grub Street

Did you miss the first turn of the New Year, now reconsidering some of those resolutions that were just a tad lofty, or simply want another reason to feast and drink before committing to the treadmill? The nouveau European restaurant Bear in Long Island City will celebrate the "Old New Year" in true Russian-Ukrainian style on January 14 — that is, in regal commemoration of the Romanoff family, who kept time with the old, obsolete Julian calendar right up until the end. (The commissars installed the Gregorian calender in 1918.)

Ukrainian Borscht can be ordered with a 'vodka supplement' that includes a shot & lardo sandwich with horseradish

Scaling back from the 30-course dinner she served on December 31, chef Natasha Pogrebinsky will next week offer a three-course "Old New Year" dinner for $50 a head, which comes with wine. The menu includes hot borscht with salo, herring, and short rib Stroganoff served with gravy over a duck-fat-roasted potato and barrel-cured sauerkraut.

Marinated herring fillet with roasted beet, pickled onions, potato pure, dill and rye bread stick

The restaurant also recently introduced a seven-course chef's tasting menu, which costs $68 and comes with the potential to upgrade with wine or vodka pairings, and for à la carte snackers, there's a big menu of small bites that starts at $4.

The Charcuterie & Cheese Platter features cured and smoked Russian-style sopressata and mortadella on French country bread with sweet butter

Bear's "Old New Year" menu will be available from 7 to 10:30 p.m. this coming Monday; reservations are required.  Bear Restaurant, 12-14 31st Ave., Long Island City, Queens.  The following is just a taste of a few of my most recent images of some of the new dishes and tastings on Bear's winter menu.

Chicken hearts braised in French brandy with red onions, garlic, and parsley--served with guava marmalade, persimmon salad, pickled mushrooms, & habanero salsa

Veal dumplings in creamy dill gravy

Steak with 'Bear sauce'

Pork Loin sandwich, 'banh mi'-style, with carrot ribbons, cilantro, house pickles, sesame vinaigrette, and cumin-mustard seed pork loin... I am obsessed with this sandwich, and had it three times in one week!

Fall Preview: 20 mouthwatering new dishes from 5 Astoria restaurants

Coca-Cola BBQ pulled pork po' boy at Sugar Freak

For a neighborhood that so often feels cozy and intimate in contrast with the frantic pace of Manhattan, it never ceases to amaze me just how rapidly and consistently things keep changing on the Astoria food scene.  Overwhelmed by where to focus for a post, I've instead narrowed it down to twenty new dishes I have tried during the past month from five different restaurants--including two newcomers.  In no particular order, here's a rundown of some of the best new bites definitely worth giving a try... As an added bonus, you'll also find Bear's new fall menu attached at the end.

The Queens Kickshaw
40-17 Broadway (half block east of Steinway M-R Station)
http://thequeenskickshaw.com/

I am absolutely an omnivore in the literal sense that I will try (and have) almost anything at least once; so when you constrict my options, I can feel claustrophobic.  That said, the vegetarian cuisine at The Queens Kickshaw is just so delicious, inventive, and lovingly conceived and prepared that I always forget the absence of meat on the menu.  Owners Ben and Jen are two of the kindest hosts you could ever hope to meet, and along with the talents of Chef Evan, they've recently expanded their menu with some superb new additions perfect for the upcoming months.

Basket of warm, golden, flaky mini knishes with celery root and blue cheese, served with beer mustard

Crunchy-coated tender cabbage croquettes, topped with melted asiago and roasted tomatoes in a cilantro-pepper sauce

Fantastically hearty wild mushroom shepherds pie, with red wine braised root vegetables and a cap of golden-peaked cauliflower mash

Crispy roasted ravioli with cheddar and fresh horseradish, cloaked in a tangy tomato and zucchini ragout

A whimsical ice cream beer-wich with a Coffee Labs macaron stuffed with Imperial Stout ice cream

Sugar Freak
36-18 30th Ave (five blocks east of the N-Q 30th Ave station)
http://sugarfreak.com/

Michelle Addeo is so passionate about bringing the foods of her childhood to Astoria, that she even had her mom stop in from Louisiana to make sure the kitchen was getting her recipes just right.  The new changes are drool-inducing, and unlike anything else in the neighborhood.  If you think you knew the menu at Sugar Freak before, I reckon you're due for a fresh gander.  They've even added popcorn alligator to the menu.  Word has it that their new sister bakery will be opening up soon (hopefully within the month) just down the street, featuring Addeo's boozy baked treats.  In the meanwhile, she'll be previewing some of the upcoming sweets as dessert specials at Sugar Freak.

Pulled pork po' boy with coca-cola BBQ and battered fried onion straws--grab a side of the pork and beef rice dressing

Gooey skillets of breadcrumb-crusted mac 'n cheese are now available mixed with jambalaya or succulent crawfish (pictured)

New starters included popcorn okra (pictured), hush puppies, and popcorn alligator

Buttermilk chicken is now served in 4 varieties: classic, spicy, zesty cherry pepper, or sweet & savory brown sugar-cinnamon (pictured), all of which can be drizzled with cheese sauce -- and hallelujah yes, that's deep-fried corn on the cob as a side!

A N'Awlins classic pastry treat: fried to-order beignets, served with a bananas foster rum sauce for dipping

Queens Comfort

40-09 30th Ave (between Steinway & 41st St)

http://www.queenscomfort.blogspot.com

It has admittedly become an addiction.  Each morning, before checking even e-mail or Facebook, there's an uncontrollable urge to visit the Queens Comfort website to see what crazy new dish they are serving up.  Chicken fingers coated in cereal with bacon caramel for dipping?  A gourmet take on a McDonald's classic breakfast sandwich?  Grape Kool-Aid ice cream?  They've tried all of that.  The menu rotates almost daily, and there's always a blend of down home comfort with good old-fashioned delicious creativity.  So if you like what you see below, go there soon.  Chances are some of these dishes won't be around next week.

The chicken and waffle has been a standard at QC for awhile, but it recently got an upgrade.  Formerly served with an Eggo waffle for the sake of nostalgia, they now make their own Belgian waffles, the bird glazed with Tabasco and maple syrup, then dusted with confectioner's sugar.

Atomic Fire Balls: take Queens Comfort's award-winning mac and cheese, rolls it in cayenne breadcrumbs, fry those puppies, drizzle with sriracha, and dip 'em in ranch dressing, and you've got a major hit.

The new billionaire bacon salad is topped with brown sugar candied bacon, blue cheese crumbles, a poached egg, and maple shallot vinaigrette. 

The bacon and chicken enchilada topped with bubbling browned cheddar, a fried egg, crema, and pico de gallo

Antika Family Style Pizzeria

36-08 30th Ave

http://www.antikapizzeria.com

Antika Family Style Pizzeria finally opened on 30th Ave, serving classic Italian-American dishes (try the provolone-stuffed meatballs!) in Individual & Family portions, as well as several varieties of pizza (yessir, they have brunch pizzas with fried eggs.)  Toppings range from classics like pepperoni, to broccoli rabe, grilled tiger shrimp, and even a drizzle of truffle oil.  The kitchen is open 'til 11PM, but the bar and pizza oven stay open 'til 2AM. Lunch specials Monday through Thursday include a personal round pie for $9.  The white tile floored dining room is pristine, and the service just as warm as the steaming pies.  Welcome to the neighborhood, Antika!

“Old Fashioned Grandma Style Square Pizza” with San Marzano tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, grana padano, pecorino, extra virgin olive oil, and oregano

These aren't just any meatballs... they are stuffed with gooey provolone cheese, blanketed in a bright, tangy marinara

Tobiko Asian Fusion Lounge

30-27 Steinway St (half block south of 30th Ave)

http://www.tobiko88.com/

Opening the doors to the place formerly known as Yamashiro Sake Lounge & Restaurant, this spot may not look much different to the untrained eye, but open the menu and it's a whole new ballgame.  To promote their opening as a completely new restaurant with a new chef and brand new menu, all sushi items are 50% off, and dishes from the kitchen are 30%.  Sound too good to be true?  The deal won't last forever--maybe just a "few months" according to management.  So run, don't walk while standard sushi rolls now range from $2.50 to $4.00.  Don't feel like running?  Order for delivery--the discount still applies!

Sushi Pizza -- a crisp scallion pancake spread with spicy tuna, then topped with tempura flakes, tobiko, avocado, sliced mango, and drizzled with eel sauce, mango sauce, and strawberry sauce.

This tuna dumpling, the size of a large grapefruit, is actually a thinly pounded slice of tuna carpaccio wrapped around spicy king crab, topped with avocado and bonito flakes, resting in an olive cilantro puree.

Just one of several varieties (try the dim sum sampler) these dumplings are stuffed with duck confit, and served with a thick hoisin sauce for dipping

Lunch specials are $6.99 and served with miso soup and salad, including this "Asian Grilled Chicken Pancake Sandwich", essentially a fantastic chicken teriyaki scallion pancake wrap

Bear Bar & Restaurant
12-14 31st Ave (a few blocks west of 21st St.)
http://www.bearnyc.com

A decadent chocolate cake truffle drizzled with raspberry port wine reduction, flagged with strips of candied bacon

Chef Natasha Pogrebinsky is turning out some of the most exquisite, meticulously plated, intricate dishes that Long Island City has ever seen.  But given her expertise and free-spirited culinary creativity, she recently decided to do away with a traditional menu, daily sourcing ingredients she has foraged from local green markets.  While the Bear website will display the final updated selections for each meal service, below are the sample menus she released today, offering a glimpse into what can be expected at brunch and dinner.  If you have yet to check out this true neighborhood gem, definitely schedule it into your dining plans soon.

click menu to enlarge

click menu to enlarge