Guiltless indulgence at Red Mango

Red Mango (30-58 Steinway, Astoria)

Open daily from 11:00am - 10:30 pm (11:30pm Fri. & Sat.)

I love... absolutely love... good, old-fashioned ice cream.  Hand-churned butter pecan by my grandpa is unparalleled.  I love frozen custards, gelato, any frosty treat loaded with real milk and fresh cream.  Iron-pressed buttery waffle cones dipped in chocolate and rolled in toffee bits, vanilla bean ice cream with swirls of raspberry puree and dark chocolate morsels.  Peppermint ice cream with gooey, crunchy bits of actual peppermint.  Warm golden butterscotch on a scoop of triple chocolate.  Fresh-from-the oven chocolate chunk cookies loaded with heaping dollops of french vanilla, decadent streams of fudge flowing down the sides, under a fluffy cumulonimbus cloud of whipped cream with a ruby cherry crowning the top.

I have not, traditionally, been an advocate of frozen yogurt.  When a Pinkberry opened by my old apartment in Manhattan, my friends wept in jealousy, certain that I would become a raving fanatic, treating myself to a daily cup.  I went once, and loathed it.  Despite the fact that I felt like I was inside a room that more resembled the inside of an enormous Hello Kitty pool toy than a dessert parlor, the yogurt itself left a sour, artificial aftertaste in my mouth, and paralyzed my taste buds for the remainder of the day.  I understand Pinkberry just about as much as I understand those who use nonfat milk for their cereal.  You might as well pour a bottle of Poland Spring over your Special K; it adds about just as much flavor, and doesn't glow a freakish hazy blue color under your corn flakes.

Needless to say, I was beyond a little skeptical to try out the newest Red Mango that just opened on Steinway Street in Astoria.  But out of loyalty to my readers, and a multitude of friends who swore that Red Mango could swim circles around Pinkberry, I set out yesterday afternoon to give it a whirl, fully expecting to sprint immediately down the block to my standard safe place that offers 31 flavors.

I was instantly relieved to discover an interior that is pristine, comfortable, and simple.  No fluorescent green and pink origami amoeba bouncing from the ceiling.  Just simple photographs of fresh fruit (and of course nutrition facts), a few contemporary tables and chairs, and calm customers enjoying their desserts either in the company of friends or their laptops (Red Mango does offer free wi-fi for its customers).

One of the girls behind the counter looked up from the toppings, and smiled at me.  "Welcome to Red Mango..." she greeted, with a surprising tone of sincerity.  One of her co-workers asked if I was ready, or if he could explain anything for me.  Would I like to sample something?

I decided to go with the Madagascar Vanilla.  If you can't do a decent vanilla, then nothing else will be that great either.  I've always believed that mastering the basics are necessary before you can delve into creative variations.  Resisting the urge to pile on every topping to mask what would surely be a letdown, I opted to go with one fresh fruit topping and one fun & crunchy topping, red raspberries and cocoa pebbles (they offer everything from blueberries and mangos, to Cap'n Crunch, Fruity Pebbles, and Ghirardelli chocolate bits).

I was profoundly surprised.  Though the texture of soft serve frozen yogurt is inarguably different than hand-scooped ice cream, the flavor was absolutely delicious.  Creamy Madagascar vanilla, with crunchy chocolate cereal flakes, and the most juicy and beautifully fresh, tart, and sweet red raspberries.  And I didn't feel grotesquely full when it was finished either.  I have to give Red Mango credit in succeeding at making a healthier frozen dessert actually taste delicious.  In addition to the vanilla, they also offer white peach, pomegranate, as well as their original flavor, along with seasonal favorites, key lime pie or lemon green tea.

As opposed to their competitors who use high fructose corn syrup or other sugars, Red Mango sweetens their 100% natural nonfat yogurt smoothies with all-natural, zero-calorie PureVia.  Red Mango also uses all fresh fruit (nothing frozen), and their yogurt contains Ganeden BC30 probiotics, promoting a healthy immune system.

Smoothies are blended from fresh fruit and nonfat yogurt, available with "boosts" such as protein, bone health, or energy.  Most of Red Mango's products are also kosher and gluten-free.  I tried the strawberry banana smoothie, which was refreshing and delicious... definitely one of the best smoothies I have had in awhile, and under 300 calories.

One of the customers at a nearby table noticed I was photographing my frozen yogurt, and recognized me from Why Leave Astoria?  An obvious Red Mango enthusiast, she also allowed me to snap a shot of her Red Mango Loyalty Card.  Every dollar you spend earns you ten points, and 500 points earns you $5 off your purchase.  You also get $5 for your birthday.  Thanks for saying hello, Melody, letting me paparazzi your card, and for the great information!

Now in soft opening, Red Mango Astoria will have its official grand opening on August 21st, where customers will be allowed a free small cup of frozen yogurt with a topping.  The first 100 customers that day will also receive a free gift.  Though I'm sure I cannot completely give up the ice cream I love so dearly, I definitely will be returning to Red Mango on a more regular basis.  It's liberating to have a satisfying dessert that doesn't make me feel so guilty.

Present your Why Leave Astoria card for $1 off any smoothie!

Watch the award-winning Sunday Morning Mimosa LIVE!

If you have ever walked along 30th Avenue or Steinway on a Sunday afternoon, you may have wondered why masses of people in every size, shape, and age are huddled around the corner of 30th Ave. & 41st St.  Is that Rosemary Clooney crooning Mambo Italiano?  Wait, now it's Britney's Womanizer... or no, is that the GaGa anthem, Bad Romance?

The music, cheering, and uproarious laughter may be what have drawn the crowds, but the reason they stay, and return week after week, is the outrageously fun and deliciously talented comedy team known as Sunday Morning Mimosa.  Originally started as a podcast on iTunes, Travis Barr, Steven Incammicia, and Joe Lisi created an entire cast of characters who narrate hilarious and quirky commentary on their lives as typical Astoria housewives.  While the podcast is still alive and strong, the internet show has now grown into a full blown production with musical numbers and dialogue that rival even the best off-Broadway productions.

Recently awarded the Pride Rally Star for outstanding performance at the Heritage of Pride Rally on the Central Park Summer Stage (where they were called back for multiple encores), Sunday Morning Mimosa has also been named one of the top cultural experiences in the five boroughs.  You may have seen them at the Why Leave Astoria event at the Beer Garden.  They perform a more improvisational sketch comedy brunch that sells out weekly at Mix Cafe + Lounge (call 347-642-4840 for reservations), and even host Italian League Bingo Night on Thursdays from 9pm to 2am at Mix.

(poster by Elias "Joey" Gutierrez)

The original trio of stars have since expanded to include the multitalented Laura Gilreath and Cassie Powell, playing secondary characters whose voices and physical comedy add a wonderful new dimension to the show.  I was recently invited to a rehearsal, where I was able to peek behind the scenes, meet the newest cast member (Cassie joins the team as Pam, Facebook friend and sketchy influence on Gina Marie's daughter, Tina Marie), witness the grueling rehearsal process, and catch a sneak peak at the elaborate full production they have developed for the Daryl Roth Theater in Union Square.

Sunday Morning Mimosa's newest show, The Showgirls Strike Back, will be playing this coming Friday night at the Daryl Roth Theater in Union Square at 10pm (the same building that houses the smash hit Fuerzabruta).  And believe me, Sunday Morning Mimosa hits the stage with just as much brute force, outrageous comedy, and musical agility as any team of acrobats flying over head in the earlier show.

Showgirls Strike Back brings the same lovable and laughable aunts Anita & Gina Marie of whom audiences have grown into loyal fanatics, but this show grows from previous incarnations in ways that reflect not only the maturity of the performers, but the development of well-loved characters over the course of years and years.  With their new production, Mimosa steps from a trio of men who do excellent characters and sing creatively-altered song lyrics to a full cast of true standout stars with a plot line that, while always silly, is poignant and brilliantly conceived.  Who else can patchwork together Marilyn Monroe, Lady GaGa, and Little Shop of Horrors into a show the leaves the audience thinking the songs were written exclusively for this purpose?

And with spectacular new Broadway-caliber costumes tailored by professional designers Elias "Joey" Gutierrez and Rachael Caunt, the Mimosa team continues to stride forward proving that they are a talent force that won't be slowing down any time soon.

* * * * *

Tickets for their 10pm show this coming Friday can be purchased at www.sundaymorningmimosa.com

They will also be performing again at the Daryl Roth on Friday, August 20th.

Tickets are $16.50 plus a one drink minimum

They can still be seen weekly at Mix Cafe + Lounge for Sunday brunch and Thursday bingo

In-N-Out of Astoria: Petey's Burger

Petey's Burger (30-17 30th Ave)

As the ongoing competition for best burger continues to escalate, especially here in Astoria, many of my friends would argue that no brioche bun, no chipotle aioli, market fresh lettuce, or gourmet cheese could create any combination more delicious than the West Coast sensation, In-N-Out.  People tweet about it, status update when they are in California, and send me text messages whenever devouring what is arguably the most satisfying burger for a great value.  While an extremely cruel April Fool's prank this year led NYU students to believe that In-N-Out would soon be opening its doors in Manhattan, the sad truth is that it was nothing more than a mere prank.

While we east coasters may not be spoiled with the delectable luxury of the delicious In-N-Out burger, one look at just the packaging, and you can tell that someone at Petey's Burger in Astoria has spent some time studying the west coast icon.  I've even heard rumors that those involved with the creation of Petey's have at one time worked extensively with In-N-Out.  If the crimson and bright yellow ketchup and mustard interior design and product packaging aren't a dead giveaway, the burger certainly is.

While part of the joy of In-N-Out burger is that you can only enjoy it by traveling west, I have to confess that I was beyond giddy to discover that I could relish a burger that would be hard to differentiate in a blind taste test... and it's only a ten block walk from my house.  Petey's burger uses no freezers, and all fresh ingredients.  One bite offers a buttery bun squish, crisp lettuce crunch, tangy tomato burst, and juicy beef burger with melted cheddar explosion that will leave you drooling for more.  Petey's burger isn't just good.  It's phenomenal.

Freshly peeled and hand cut french fries are evenly and wonderfully salted, with crispy outer crunch and warm and tender inside spud.

Milkshakes are offered in classic vanilla, strawberry, or chocolate, and are blended with real, smooth, milky ice cream.  Nothing tastes better after a salty crunch of potatoes than a chocolaty gulp of smooth and creamy milkshake.  And combos make this burger joint extremely reasonable.  A cheeseburger, french fries, and soft drink come in under $8.  Milkshakes at $3.99 are the same price as a burger, but well worth the splurge.  And if you're up for trying something different, my personal favorite is the Petey's Melt ($3.99), the cheeseburger served on buttery toasted sourdough bread instead of a bun.

Petey's is open 7 days a week from 11am - 11pm, and delivers to a rather extensive area.  But if you live in Manhattan and simply can't wait until your next trip west, I highly recommend a visit to Astoria to tide you over.

Pakora, Samosas, and Lassis, Oh My!

Seva Indian Cuisine (30-07 34th St., Astoria)

In Indian, the word seva means selfless service or work offered to God.  It might seem like quite a lofty name for a restaurant, but considering the important role religion plays throughout Indian culture, including cuisine, it also seems somehow appropriate.  Although Indian is one of the most popular foods in the world, I only first encountered it when I moved to New York City 7 years ago.  And just like any food in New York, I've had several hit-or-miss experiences.  Because of it's reliance on the masterful balance of various spices and cooking techniques, when Indian is great, it's a delicious feast fit for the gods.  At its worst, you walk away with a sour taste in your mouth that won't likely soon dissipate.

It also seems to be a cuisine that not many people in my own personal circle crave very often, so when I recently found myself in company that loves it, I knew exactly where I wanted it to try it. And let me just say up front, Seva may not incorporate a lot of the gimmicks often employed in New York City Indian restaurants.  You won't find servers beckoning you in with a complimentary glass of wine.  The ceiling isn't sprinkled with strands of blinking Christmas lights.  But the food at Seva is some of best in the city, a delicate, masterful showcase of nuanced spices, meats, and sauces that sing together harmoniously for a splendid feast fit for the gods.

Shortly after sitting down, we were presented with a very simple, yet delicious version of a classic Indian starter, papadum.  The papadum at Seva is a paper thin, crisp cracker made from lentils, and served with mint and tamarind chutneys.  A delicious orientation for your palate if you haven't had Indian in awhile, and a satisfying amuse bouche for the table.

I have an admittedly low threshold for spice, so although Seva allows you to order dishes spicy, medium, or mild, I always like to make sure I have a drink on hand to cool my tongue if things get too fiery.  Made from sweetened mango pulp, yogurt, and milk, a mango lassi is a traditional Indian beverage that Seva prepares to perfection.  The balance of sweet and creamy, it's just what I need to counteract sometimes aggressive spices.

The masala crab cakes are a hearty and savory spin on this popular seafood appetizer.  Seva's interpretation employs succulent lump crabmeat, as well as garam masala ("hot mixture"), but rather than packing heat, packs intense flavors.  Pepper, cumin, coriander, and other fragrant spices are balanced with the minty coolness of cardamom.  In a pool of fresh mint chutney and lemon-cilantro yogurt dip, it's a beautifully balanced crab cake that offers a unique progression of flavors with every single bite ($5).

On my most recent visit, I was extremely saddened that they were out of bok choy.  The bok choy crispy curls (fried in chickpea batter with mango powder) were my favorite dish during my previous visit, and are almost like a fragrant Indian tempura, which I will certainly return for in the near future.  In their absence, however, we selected the sampler platter (everything pictured in the photo at the head of this post for only $6).  The lamb spring rolls are golden-fried pastries packed with ground lamb, coriander, and green peas.

Pakora are like little Indian fritters... above is cauliflower and potato, dipped in a chickpea (gram flour) batter, and deep-fried.  If there are state fairs in India, I have to imagine this is what would probably be a most popular dish.  They're delicious, and dipped in the tamarind chutney, you can't stop eating them.  Golden and crispy batter is a brilliant disguise for tender vegetables.

Samosas were probably the first Indian dish with which I fell infatuated, and Seva's are no exception.  With the sampler platter, you get two of these pastry pyramids, one packed with curried potatoes, peas, and lentils, the other bursting with minced spiced chicken.  Nothing is more disappointing than a dry samosa, but here, they are crisp, flaky, buttery, and filled with moist stuffing, almost a miniature meal in and of itself.  Alternate dipping in the various chutneys, and you'll want a second order.

For a main course, I simply can't resist Seva's curries.  Curry is technically a gravy, mixing spices, herbs, nuts, and yogurt carefully chosen for each dish.  For the novice or skeptical Indian diner, chicken korma is a delicious way to go, blending almonds, cashews, and coconut.

Although Western influence has certainly impacted Indian culture, most dishes are traditionally eaten without the use of utensils.  Naan bread is commonly used to pinch the food and basmati rice between the forefingers, as well as for soaking up the leftover curry sauce at the end of the dish.  Though Seva offers onion, garlic, sesame, and cheese versions for $3 an order, I absolutely love the rosemary naan, yet another layer of herbs for a beautifully seasoned dish.  Seva's naan is excellently executed, with a slightly crispy outer edge and delicate, soft, steamy inside.  Why would anyone prefer to use a fork?

Our server recommended the parsi shrimp curry as his favorite main dish ($14), and I'm quite certain it will soon become my standard dish, as well.  Succulent shrimp are tossed in an amber curry of tamarind, garlic, and ginger.  Tangy, sweet, and spicy, it's almost like a tropical seafood stew over rice.

Diners who present a Why Leave Astoria? card are entitled to a complimentary appetizer or dessert.  So of course, we had to try a sweet ending to such a savory meal.  We fell in love with the gulab jamun, also known as "waffle balls" which are like deep-fried donuts with a cashew stuffing, glazed with honey, chilled, and served in rosewater with a hint of cardamom.  Sweet, light, and extremely refreshing, it was a beautiful finale to an extraordinary meal.

Whether you live in Astoria or not, Seva should be on the wish list of any lover of Indian cuisine.  They even serve an all-you-can-eat brunch buffet on Saturdays and Sundays from noon to 3pm for just $11 per person.  A lunch prix fixe is also available for $13 throughout the week.  Excellent Indian food rarely (if ever in New York City) comes at such a great value. 

Rosa Mexicano is still my favorite...

Rosa Mexicano at Lincoln Center (61 Columbus Avenue at 62nd St.)

When the original Rosa Mexicano opened up in 1984 on Manhattan's upper east side, it shook the restaurant scene by offering elevated classic Mexican cuisine in a more upscale, fine-dining setting.  While that original location (a longtime favorite of mine) still offers much of their original menu with a traditional and old school festive Mexican ambiance, the Rosa Mexicano brand has since expanded.  Now with 9 locations (including three in NYC), patrons can enjoy Rosa Mexicano in New Jersey, Maryland, even California.  Of course as I've watched their empire expand over the past several years, I grew fearful that quality would be compromised in the chain.  So I recently paid a visit to their more elegant and grandiose location across from Lincoln Center to see if I still enjoyed the dishes as much as I recalled (for several years, this was where my friends and I celebrated birthdays and special occasions).

While reservations are highly recommended (especially in the evening with Lincoln Center just a stone's throw away) if you do have to wait, the bar is simply beautiful, with backlit glass panels of pressed rose petals along the ceiling.  They offer the full drink selection, as well as the menu, so if you score a seat, it might be worthwhile option on an evening that an unreserved table seems unlikely.

My favorite seat in the house, however, is just up the floating orange and red terrazzo staircase.  A seat by the window offers impressive elevated views of Lincoln Center and Columbus Avenue, while a table on the railing overlooks a 30-foot iridescent blue tiled gently cascading water fall that steals your breath in the evening light.

With 240 miniature sculpted cliff divers soaring downwards, it's pretty easy to see why the interior has garnered awards and much acclaim.  But here is an insider tip.  Just as several Manhattan venues implement cover charges or admission fees for stunning evening ambiance or entertainment, Rosa Mexicano seems to have built theirs into the menu.  One of it's biggest criticisms has been the price.  Though portions are not noticeably different, lunch items are sometimes $5 cheaper than on their dinner menu.  If you are willing to gaze upon the waterfall in daylight, then lunch here is where you'll find the best deal.  Lunch is served 11:30 to 4:00 weekdays (brunch on the weekends until 2:30) so I recommend arriving around 2:00 to miss the business rush and enjoy a more relaxed early afternoon meal.

Although they've been serving flawless and addictive frozen pomegranate margaritas since long before it became Manhattan mainstream, the bar also offers many classic Mexican concoctions that you won't likely find elsewhere.  Consider La Paloma (Sauza Hornitos reposado tequila with grapefruit soda over ice), El Vaquero (agave nectar, muddled lemons, and grapefruit juice spiked with Jack Daniels), or the Martini Mexicano (Ketel One shaken with jalapeno-infused olive brine), not to mention a coconut-cilantro mojito or a spiced vanilla and clementine orange rosé sangria.

Quacamole is a no-brainer, the best and freshest in the city, so just plan on placing an order right away.  The server will ask you when he inquires whether you prefer tap or bottled agua.  Though they claim a single order serves two, it really is a perfect starter for up to four just to whet your palate for the upcoming meal (remember generous communal bowls of pureed black beans with cheese and deliciously tender red rice are served with the entrees, so plan on being filled up beyond your expectation).  Prepared tableside in traditional lava rock molcajete, the guacamole attendant will wheel a cart directly to you as he cuts open fresh avocado to blend with tomato, onion, cilantro, and jalapenos.  

Even the mild has a tiny kick to it, so order accordingly.  Be sure to clarify if you want no jalapenos whatsoever, as it is definitely present in even the mildest blend.  Along with the creamy avocado dip, you'll receive a basket of soft tortillas, crunchy chips, and ramekins of pasilla de oaxaca and a tomatillo and habanero salsa... smoky and tangy condiments intended to be used as accompaniments throughout the entire meal (although they taste wonderful on the tortillas alone).

My favorite empanadas anywhere are still Rosa Mexicano's empanadas de jaiba.  Three crispy corn turnovers are packed to bursting with jumbo lump crabmeat, and served with a creamy avocado salsa, as well as a mango pico de gallo.  Tropical sweet bits of mango dancing with salty sea lumps of crab and a golden pastry crunch is one of the most divine appetizer combinations fathomable ($12 at lunch or $14 at dinner... same portions).

Not many foods in this world are quite as sinfully delicious as a skillet of melted cheese.  For $9, we enjoyed a generous cast iron cauldron of melted chihuahua cheese with crumbled chorizo, rajas (slow-roasted peppers), and fresh cilantro.  Mix it with the guacamole, wrap it in fresh warm soft tortillas, or dip a crispy chip into it.  At a table for four, we devoured this rather quickly.

One of the best deals at Rosa Mexicano is the taco platter.  Pictured above is a pescado pibil, red snapper marinated in achiote, orange, and garlic, and topped with habanero-lime pickled onions.

Each of the taco skillets (chicken pictured above) are served with a bowl of red-bean chorizo chili, corn esquites (a Mexican street favorite), salsa, and soft corn tortillas, with a small salad of mixed greens.  At lunch, the chicken tacos are $13.50. When you consider that you can easily make four or five tacos with the portion, and individual tacos at authentic vendors in the city run close to $3 a piece, I'm not sure why so many people gripe about the prices at Rosa Mexicano.  Not to mention that they used extremely fresh and superb quality ingredients.  This exact same entree at dinner, however, is $18.50... which does seem like a rather arbitrary and ridiculous mark-up.

My friend ordered a dish I had not yet tried (and believe you me, I have tried almost everything here throughout the years), enchiladas mole blanco.  I have erroneously always assumed mole to be the poblano and chocolate sauce commonly used, but there apparently exist many other variations.  In this extremely satisfying rendition, two corn tortillas are generously stuffed with tangy and spicy tomato-chipotle shredded beef, then blanketed in a thick and creamy sweet corn and pine nut mole.  The rich buttery earthiness of the sauce juxtaposed with the piquant peppered beef was entirely unique and exciting for me to try.  This is a dish I would enthusiastically recommend again ($15... $19.75 at dinner)

I nearly panicked when scanning the menu I noticed the absence of my longtime favorite, the Budin Azteca.  Though my server couldn't offer an explanation, I was relieved to discover that it had simply been renamed Budin de Pollo.  Almost like a Mexican lasagna, this little baked pillow of cheesey deliciousness consists of layers of corn tortillas, pulled chicken, chihuahua cheese, corn, and roasted peppers, surrounded by a moat of poblano cream sauce.  If my arteries could afford it, this is a dish I could eat day after day, and remains one of my favorite guilty pleasures in the entire city.

Is there anything more traditional than churros en bolsa?  Warm Mexican doughnut sticks dusted with cinnamon and sugar.  Crisp and buttery on the outside, soft and warm inside, and served with chocolate, raspberry, and caramel dipping sauces.  Though the milky caramel was decadent, I couldn't help but double-dipping in the chocolate and raspberry for a sweet and tart cordial pastry combination.

Keeping up with the Manhattan cupcake obsession, Rosa Mexicano serves up its own version, the Pingüino... a moist chocolate cupcake filled with hazelnut mousse, topped with whipped creme fraiche.  The cocoa-nutty pastry sits in a pool of espresso-piloncillo (Mexican brown sugar) chocolate sauce and is crowned with a chocolate wafer completing the penguin effect.  This was a top hit at the table, moist, not ridiculously rich, balanced beautifully between the chocolate, mousse, and fresh cream.

One of the most unique and delicious of this classic dessert I have ever tried, the Flan de Rosa is incomparably creamy, almost like a vanilla bean panna cotta, served over a thin wafer of toasted almond cake for a unique contrast in texture and flavor you don't ordinarily find.  The pool of maple syrup was almost unnecessary, as the flan itself was so perfect, and paired with an absolutely exquisite and peppery chocolate mole sorbet. Just yet another prime example of how Rosa Mexicano takes classic Mexican recipes and adds just the right amount of elevation to transcend common street food.

The food, despite the somewhat muddled and confused pricing disparity between dinner and lunch, is at the top of its class.  It would be difficult to find better Mexican food in New York City.  And while you may prefer the street vendor or hole-in-the-wall vibe with your chips and salsa and Coronita, it is nice to know that you can enjoy delicious Mexican food and receive exceptional service as well; Rosa Mexicano's service would be hard to beat.  We had to chuckle, as they even drew a curtain in the dining room to separate the patrons from the incoming dinner staff gathering for pre-shift.  Though it's probably intended to delineate private gatherings, we appreciated not seeing or hearing the staff as they prepared for the evening and tasted communal samples of the day's specials.  If you're not going to share, I'd rather not see or hear about it.

Though some may argue, we found that you absolutely get more than what you pay for.  Although I will probably avoid the dinner menu inflation, anyone who considers themselves to be a true lover of Mexican cuisine should at least drop by for lunch.

Empress crab claws, fresh Maine lobster rolls, & blueberry soda

Luke's Lobster (93 E. 7th St., East Village)

Growing up in the relatively land-locked Midwest, I thought that seafood was simply anything that lived in the water.  Don't get me wrong... Indiana does hot-buttered corn, granny smith apple dumplings with warm cinnamon sauce, apple butter, and pork tenderloin sandwiches better than anywhere else in the country.  It's just that we didn't see much from the ocean hit our menus.  Lake Michigan actually had a beach, and you couldn't see one side of the lake from the other.  So when restaurants posted freshwater favorites such as trout, tilapia, and cornmeal-crusted catfish as the catch of the day, I was never really aware that any other seafood was available.  Scallops were frozen and often dry, although my mom made delicious dijon-crusted shellfish bakes.  Shrimp, lobster, and crab were so ridiculously overpriced that we only really ever ate them when vacationing somewhere near the ocean.  It wasn't until my brother's girlfriend took us to visit her family in Maryland that I'd even heard of lobster rolls... and the minute I tried one, I marched right back up to the counter and ordered a second.  Who knew lobster could taste so delicious when it was fresh?

When I found out that Luke's Lobster had opened in the East Village, I was instantly skeptical.  4 ounces of buttery and sweet lobster knuckle and claw meat for $14 seemed impossible.  I've enjoyed several versions of the lobster roll since moving to the East Coast, but most are hot dog buns loaded with lobster salad, with just as much Miracle Whip and celery bits as actual lobster meat.  Or occasionally, marginal quality lobster meat is masked by a brioche roll or some other gimmick.  Where did Luke's fall on the spectrum of lobster rolls?

Luke Holden, owner, was born off the coast of the Maine, and even started his own lobster company while in high school.  At Luke's Lobster, however, he teams with his father, owner of Portland Shellfish seafood processing company.  With the heaven-divined father-son duo, fresh Maine lobster is delivered daily to Luke's in the East Village (and now the Upper West Side, as well), assuring the finest and freshest lobster meat available.

Because we don't make it to the Village every day, my friend and I had to sample a little bit of everything.  Shrimp, crab, or lobster rolls range from $7 to $14, with half rolls available, as well.  We tackled the Noah's Ark, a feast for two for $38.  $19 per person gets each grubber their own shrimp, crab, and lobster mini rolls, empress crab claws, a bag of potato chips, and a soda.

Everything was mouthwateringly exceptional, and we debated ordering a second round.  The buns are buttered and toasted, then drizzled with a slight slathering of mayo.  The shellfish is brushed with a light glazing of lemon butter to amplify the taste of the sea, then sprinkled with a house blend of sea salt, celery salt, thyme, and oregano... just enough enhancements to bring out the succulent sweetness of the incredibly fresh shellfish.  It was, by far, the best lobster roll I have ever enjoyed.

For beverage options, you won't have to worry if they carry your preferred cola, because they don't.  At Luke's they serve organic, sugar cane extract sweetened, Maine Root sodas.  We enjoyed refreshing bottles of blueberry and mandarin orange sodas, as well as sea salt and cracked black pepper potato chips.

The empress crab claws were tender and exquisite, and for $5, you can add 4 to any meal...  I could probably have stayed and devoured empress claws all night long, if we didn't have more to tackle ahead of us.

Hurricane's soups and chowders is a small Maine business run by four family members.  The clam chowder was full of plump clam medallions and potatoes.  It was creamy and hearty, and exceptionally delicious.  Because of the heat, we shared one cup, but next time, I'll probably order my own.  It would only be better in a bread bowl, but the chowder itself was phenomenal.  Hurricane uses seafood from Luke's father's business, so the soups are sent on the truck with the daily order from Maine.  Never frozen, they use no artificial ingredients, no gluten, no preservatives, or MSG.

For dessert, definitely share a scoop of Gifford's lobster tracks ice cream.  Using vanilla beans from Maine's heartland, the ice cream is swirled with decadent ribbons of fudge, and polka dotted with little red candy spheres filled with buttery caramel that explodes at a bite.  They offer a few other flavors, as well, but the lobster tracks are sinfully delicious.

It's not a huge shop, just a small counter, some lobster traps and gear decorating the wall, and a few stools on the periphery if you are lucky enough to snag one.  Just a few blocks from Tompkins Square Park, it's well worth the wait in line even if you have to take the order to go.  But I guarantee that if you take one bite of the pure, buttery, tender lobster meat that there's no way your meal will make it to the park.